ANGELA BIRD'S

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INTRODUCTION TO THE VENDEE Check
this section out for:
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THE VENDEE is a large département (or county) about the size
of Devon or Cumbria (or, for American readers, somewhere between the size of
Maine and West Virginia), located on the French Atlantic coast, just south of
Brittany and Nantes, and north of La Rochelle. Its position, within 2 to 5
hours of the various western ferry ports, makes the area an easy day's
journey from Britain and Ireland. The population, according to the 1999
census, is 540,000. |
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The name "Vendée" is taken from that of a river
that runs through the south-east of the département. After crossing the
forest of Mervent it flows through the town of Fontenay-le-Comte, which used
to be the capital of Bas-Poitou - the county's name was changed to Vendée
after the French Revolution of 1789 (see History page) - until
Napoleon decided his soldiers could keep the Vendeans in order more easily
from La Roche-sur-Yon. The river meanders on through the marshes to meet the
Sevre Niortaise, and turns west to meet the sea in the bay known as the Anse
de l'Aiguillon. |
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Though several beautiful tourism brochures for the département
are produced, you do not seem to come across many of them in the UK. If you
contact the departmental tourist bureau direct (tel: +33 (0)2 51 47 88 22;
fax: (0)2 51 05 37 01) and ask for information you should receive some
substantial brochures called something like "Horizons Vendée", or
"Vendée Bleue, Vendée Verte" - they vary the title a bit from year
to year. |
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WEATHER |
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A microclimate, said to be similar to that of the
Côte d'Azur, ensures that 2,500 hours of sunshine beam down on the Vendée's
140km of sandy beaches (see map, left - sorry you can't read the figures, but
basically the darker, the hotter...). June is traditionally the driest month. |
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Peak tourist activity is throughout July and August
(especially 14 July to 15 August). Principal seaside resorts are St-Jean-de-Monts, St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie,
Les Sables-d'Olonne and La Tranche-sur-Mer. |
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There are plenty of activities for all:
water parks; castles; no fewer than five 18-hole golf courses; countless churches
and abbeys; museums of every sort; prehistoric standing-stones; thousands of
waymarked footpaths; a signposted cycleway running along the coast (several
sections already open, others under construction); mudflats and marshes that
attract unusual birds, from avocets to storks; fishing in sea, rivers and
lakes; and wide, unpolluted skies for stargazers. |
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A PERSONAL TOP TWENTY Below -
in vaguely anticlockwise order from the north-west - is my personal list of
must-sees for holidaymakers (more detail on all these is given in the guidebook): 1. Port du Bec, near
Beauvoir-sur-Mer 2. Le Passage du Gois,
Noirmoutier 3. Ile d'Yeu 4. Sallertaine, near Challans 5. Musée Milcendeau, near Soullans 6. Apremont, near Aizenay 7. Les Sables-d'Olonne 8. Jard-sur-Mer 9. Avrillé / Le Bernard, near Jard-sur-Mer 10. Parc Floral de la Court d'Aron,
St-Cyr-en-Talmondais 11. Mareuil-sur-Lay,
near Luçon 12. Marais
Poitevin, or "Green Venice", South Vendée 13. Fontenay-le-Comte 14. Vouvant, near La Chataigneraie 15. Cinéscénie, Puy-du-Fou 16. Grand
Parcours, Puy-du-Fou 17. Chateau de Barbe-Bleue, Tiffauges 18. Notre-Dame-de-Salette, near Chavagnes-en-Paillers 19. Logis de la Chabotterie, St-Sulpice-le-Verdon 20. Chapel
of le Petit-Luc, Les Lucs-sur-Boulogne |
HOW TO GET TO THE VENDÉE
(see also the Property owners’ pages)
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BY SEA |
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"Brittany Ferries
sails direct to Brittany, Normandy and Spain. As well as the highest
standards of on board facilities we offer a great range of self-catering and
hotel holidays with your car in France and Spain." 25-30% discounts for BF’s frequent-traveller or property-owners’
schemes. |
BRITTANY
FERRIES |
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Portsmouth-Le Havre
(5.5-8 hours’ crossing time; approximately 5 hours
driving time to Vendée) THANKS TO VERNON FOR THIS INFORMATION |
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20-50% discounts for shareholders |
Dover-Calais (75 minutes' crossing
time; approximately 6/7 hours drive to Vendée) |
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Frequent Traveller
Club, giving 20% discount on all travel between UK, Channel Islands and
St-Malo |
Poole-St Malo (4 hrs 30 mins
crossing time by fast catamaran; approximately 3 hrs driving time in France); |
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IRISH
FERRIES |
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Rosslare-Cherbourg (17 hrs crossing time; approximately 5 hrs
driving time in France) THANKS TO IVOR FOR THIS INFORMATION |
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Rosyth-Zeebrugge (17 hours crossing
time; approximately 8 hours'driving time in France) THANKS TO ROSEMARY FOR THIS INFORMATION |
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And if you prefer to take your car on the under-sea route
instead, here is a link to Eurotunnel
for the Folkestone-to-Calais/Coquelles shuttle service. (35 mins’ crossing
time, 6/7 hours’ drive to the Vendée).
As you do not even have to get out of your car, this is an ideal route
for those with difficulty walking, or for those travelling with pets in the
vehicle. |
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Eurostar
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Here is a site on which to check out the French Railways (SNCF) timetables. |
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Airport to city centre and railway station (Sortie sud) Train services Click here to see a sketch
map of the routes from Nantes and La Rochelle to various points in the
Vendée.
Nantes public transport system (TAN): Cheaper than the airport shuttle is the normal 37 bus
service from a stop at the airport alongside that of the TANair (its route is
Nantes Atlantique airport to Croix Jeanette); weekday service roughly every
20 minutes. On a Sunday morning this is your only public transport
possibility, as the TANair does not run till Sunday afternoon.
Experiment 1 I took a taxi from the airport to Bouaye
station (pronounced “boo-eye” by the locals, and “boo-ay” by others), a tiny
rural place in the middle of nowhere, just to the SW of the airport (the
station is well outside the village of Bouaye, so make sure you specify “la
gare de Bouaye”). It’s probably only about 3km as the crow flies, but the
airport grounds are in the way! The
taxi cost 19 euros (plus tip), so quite an expensive option for one person
compared with the shuttle bus. But it
did get me on a train an hour earlier than I would have caught by waiting for
the next shuttle bus into Nantes. Experiment 2 I took the 37 bus to Neustrie (a tram
terminus), then the tram to Pont-Rousseau – a working-class suburb of Nantes.
Getting off here, I had to walk across an open car park to Pont-Rousseau
station (actually next to another tram-line terminus). This station was a bit
bigger than that of Bouaye, but the whole area was slightly sleazy, with
graffiti etc, so I might not want to do that on my own in the dark. Cost was
brilliant though. Just 1.30€ from airport to station on the one ticket bought
on boarding the 37 bus. LA ROCHELLE
BMI |
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Other air-travel possibilities |
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The road system is improving all the time. The A84 "Autoroute des Estuaires"
(a toll-free dual carriageway, linking the north-western ports with the city
of Rennes), is now complete. |
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NEW RULE FOR MOTORISTS From 1 July 2008 it is compulsory for
any vehicle being driven in France TIP Buy these items before leaving
home! |
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The blood alcohol level for drivers in France is
currently even lower than it is in the UK, so drinking and driving is out! If
caught, you will have your licence removed on the spot. Equally outlawed is using the mobile phone while
driving - even with hands-free system. Driver and all passengers must wear seat belts at
all times. Spot-checks are often made even in the most rural of villages. Never cross a solid white line in the middle of the road! The French police can take your licence away on the spot
- awkward if you do not have another driver in the car with you to take
over... And, finally, in August 2005 “Ian” writes: |
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Coach travel from London's Victoria Coach Station is
provided by Eurolines , though
considering how long it takes (overnight, via Dover) it is surprisingly
expensive. Once in the Vendée, you are not too well served for
public transport. Click
here to see the Sovetours bus services within the département (click on
“carte du réseau” to see routes, and then on individual route numbers to see
the timetables. The main Sovetours page now has links to
different bus routes, so you can see the timetables (click on one of the
numbers at the bottom, to go to one of those routes; once you have one up,
and you look at La Roche sur Yon, you will see links to dozens more
routes). Note that quite large sections
of the timetables run in school term-times only. |
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AND
NOW HERE'S A BIG SECRET FOR DRIVERS:
Confused? You won't be...
This image is from one of the excellent IGN maps - red series No 107.
To see details of routes
from the ferry ports, click here.
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