ANGELA BIRD'S

The
Vendée 

WHAT TO EAT AND WHERE TO EAT IT

FOOD SPECIALITIES

As everywhere in France, the Vendée has its culinary specialities. In this seaside area you would expect to find fish and shellfish - and you certainly won't be disappointed. Sardines and sea-bass, lobsters and langoustines, mussels, scallops, crabs, cockles, skate, tuna, sole and mackerel turn up in abundance in fish markets and restaurants.	The staple food, found on menus everywhere in the Vendée - where it is often served with local gammon - is the small white haricot bean traditionally simmered slowly for hours and known as the "mogette". It is grown particularly around Les Brouzils and Le Poiré-sur-Vie.	Poultry farming is big, particularly around Challans. The nearby marshes were famous for duck-rearing, and the town can still boast of being the "duck capital" of France. Poultry-raising now includes the "poulet noir", a free-range, black-feathered chicken (its meat being of such renown that the birds are now on sale in Selfridge's Food Hall!).

RESTAURANTS

I am taking the brave step of recommending, below, a few of our favourite restaurants.
This is probably unwise. Either everyone will disagree heartily with
our judgments, or we'll never be able to get a table ourselves any more! I disclaim all
responsibility - so don't sue me if your meal wasn't up to expectations...

Unless I've marked these establishments as wildly cheap, or fiendishly expensive,
you can take it that they're in a medium price range - say about 20 euros per head.
However, as French office workers expect to eat out well and cheaply at
midday, you'll often find exceptionally good-value lunches (around 15 euros) on offer from
Monday to Friday - even in the most expensive restaurant.

Here is a link to Les Toques Vendéennes - a group of 20 eating establishments
that have joined forces to market themselves
through a booklet that you can pick up in local restaurants and tourist offices.

THE EURO
I am afraid you will find a few prices for places I have not revisited for a long time still quoted in old-fashioned francs.
Bear in mind that these will clearly be very out of date (switchover was in 2002!), and that 10 French francs roughly = 1.5 euro = £1.

JUNE 2007
Two new chefs in the Vendée have been awarded Michelin stars,
joining the two already bearing this gastronomic accolade.

If you want to sample their output, here they are
(Weekday lunchtime menus often have a good-value option)

Area 1. Alexandre Couillon, La Marine, L’Herbaudière, Noirmoutier island.
Area 2. Jean-Pascal Vallée, Villa Dilecta, Les Sables-d’Olonne.
Area 2. Raphael Rolland, Le Cayola, Le Château-d’Olonne.
Area 5. Thierry Drapeau, Logis de la Chabotterie, St-Sulpice-le-Verdon.

 To help location, I'm going to divide the Vendée - and surrounding area - up
into the same six sections as I have for the guidebook.

1. CHALLANS, ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE AND THE ISLANDS	2. LA ROCHE, LES SABLES AND THE BAS-BOCAGE	3. LUÇON, LA TRANCHE AND THE MARAIS POITEVIN
4. FONTENAY, POUZAUGES AND THE HAUT-BOCAGE	5. LES HERBIERS, CHOLET AND PUY-DU-FOU	6. NANTES, ST-NAZAIRE AND LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE

Some of these establishments we haven't revisited for some time, so no
guarantees, but if you're devoid of ideas then these are probably still worth trying.
Nobody said our tastes were going to be the same as yours though...

If you're prepared to share any of your own discoveries,
do mail me a short piece and I'll give you due credit on the page !

1. CHALLANS, ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE AND THE ISLANDS

La Barre-de-Monts, Beauvoir-sur-Mer, Bois-de-Céné, Bouin, Challans, Châteauneuf, Commequiers, Fromentine, La Garnache, Ile de Noirmoutier, Notre-Dame-de-Monts, St-Christophe-du-Ligneron, St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, St-Hilaire-de-Riez, St-Jean-de-Monts, Sallertaine, Soullans, Ile d'Yeu.

Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

Photo: Chez Charles website	CHALLANS Chez Charles, 8 Place du Champ de Foire (tel: 02 51 93 36 65) Chic restaurant on the large square where the Tuesday-morning market is held, with sophisticated modern décor and beautifully- presented food. Specialities include local foie gras and Challans duck. Menus from 16€ to 46€ (2006). Closed Sun evening and Mon (July & August, closed Sun evening only), and also from late Dec to late Jan.
Photo: Le Gourmandin website	CHALLANS Le Gourmandin, 73 rue Bonne-Fontaine (tel: 02 51 35 39 09) JOHN BROMHALL WRITES: This restaurant near the hospital is run by a young couple, Maude and Stephane: he is the chef, she does front of house. Menus at around 18€ and 21€ (2007 prices) both include fish and meat dishes. There’s à la carte, and also a 'carte blanche' - the contents of which depend on what is available in the market. Food preparation and presentation are excellent. Here in Edinburgh we would pay 2-3 times the cost and think we had good value for money. It’s worth booking in advance as we did on a wet January night. Closed Sunday evening, Monday, and Wednesday evening.
	CHALLANS Le Don Camillo, 53 r Gambetta (tel: 02 51 49 02 93) JOHN BROMHALL WRITES: As its name suggests, this restaurant near the station serves predominantly pizza & pasta - but with a French influence. It’s ideal for a cheap and cheerful meal; we have been a number of times and not been disappointed.
Photo: Angela Bird	COMMEQUIERS Hotel de la Gare (tel: 02 51 54 80 38) RICHARD GARLICK WRITES: Sunday lunches are a favourite family outing here, so best to book in advance. Attractively-decorated 19th-century building, opposite village's former railway station and just across the road from the Vélo-Rail. Leafy garden. play area just outside the dining room. If you order in advance, you can enjoy a varied plateau of fruits de mer at 35 euros per head - not cheap, but we considered excellent value. Service good but a little slow at busy times. Closed Mon.
Photo: Angela Bird	LA GARNACHE Le Petit St-Thomas, 11 Boulevard des Platanes (tel: 02 51 49 05 99) RICHARD GARLICK WRITES: The friendly young owners have taken the restaurant opposite the gates of La Garnache's ruined castle up market with an ambitious menu. Some dishes are more successful than others but we gave them full marks for effort; desserts were particularly good. Very attractive interior. Booking advised for dinner, particularly weekends. Ample parking. Closed Mon, and Tues evening (open Tues in July and August)
Photo: Angela Bird	GIVRAND Ferme-Auberge du Rocher; opposite Dauphins Bleus campsite (tel: 02 51 54 59 04) The interior of the old barn that houses this "farm-inn" has suffered rather an insensitive transformation, with its plastic-framed windows and corrugated roof giving it a slightly bleak aspect. However the outside has been painted by Jacky Stéphane Dordonnat with dazzling murals, left, and the good-value food - based on produce of the farm - is excellent. It does pay to be keen on duck, though, as Madame Audéon and her husband specialise in foie gras, magrets, rillettes and other delicacies, which you can also buy at the farm shop. 65F-195F (2000). Open midday; also evening from 1 June to 30 Sept. Closed Mon.
Photo of L’Herbaudière: © Antoine Vairet	NOIRMOUTIER (L’Herbaudière) La Cambuse, Port de Plaisance (Marina), L’Herbaudière (tel: 02 51 35 72 27) One of a row of restaurants along the newly-renovated harbour front of this attractive port on the north coast of Noirmoutier that offers indoor and outdoor dining. The Cambuse has menus from 17€ (2006), and an emphasis on grills and seafood.
Photo Angela Bird	NOIRMOUTIER (L’Herbaudière) La Marine & La Tante Elise, Port de Plaisance (Marina), L’Herbaudière (tel: 02 51 39 23 09) Young chef and Michelin-starholder Alexandre Couillon has won high praise from French gourmet guides for his interesting twists on the seafood that is landed outside his door, as well as on other ingredients (try his green-pea sorbet!). La Marine, with just 25 covers, is newly fitted out (2008) in fantastic black and white decor; menus from around 55€. He has also opened a slightly cheaper place next door called La Table d’Elise (photograph, left) where you can enjoy lunch for just 18.50€ in a friendly atmosphere and relaxed setting. Closed Sun evg, Tues evg & all day Wed. Obtained a Michelin star for La Marine in 2007
Photo: Auberge du Relais website	LE PERRIER Auberge Le Relais (tel: 02 51 68 32 28) Though unpromisingly located on the main road from Challans to St-Jean-de-Monts, this restaurant offers a surprisingly peaceful setting looking out over open marshland – and most important, delicious food! Look for Challans duck, eel, frongs’ legs, seafood. Menus from around 25 euro. (2006) Closed Mon off-season.
Photo: Angela Bird	ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE Le Boisvinet, 2 Rue Louis Cristau (tel: 02 51 55 51 77). A sea view from the tables set just across from the small Boisvinet beach on the north side of St-Gilles. The food is classically fishy. It's wise to book; the restaurant fills up amazingly by about 9pm. 83F-228F (2000). Closed Sun evening, Tues evening & Wed, Sept-June; closed Mon in July & Aug. 2006: Friends have reported that this restaurant has changed hands, and may not be as good as it was…
Photo: Carolyn Boakes	ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE La Cotriade, 8 Rue Louis Cristau (tel: 02 51 55 09 62) Even though you may not be able to see the sea from the windows of this trim blue-and-white restaurant just along from Le Boisvinet - it's screened from the water by a clutch of buildings - you can certainly taste it here. The grilled sardines, left, and other fish, and the ultra-friendly service more than make up for the lack of sea view. Menus from 89F (2000).
	ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE Casino, 2 Quai Garcie-Ferrande (tel: 02 51 60 09 29) It may seem odd to recommend a gaming joint, but the brasserie inside St-Gilles' modern casino is open to all - gamblers and non-gamblers alike - from coffee-time to the small hours of the morning. Located on the first floor, it has huge sliding windows overlooking the estuary of the river Vie, and serves good-value meals for around 100F (1999), with occasional "themed" evenings when you can eat couscous, curry etc. Open daily all year, and still animated even in winter. One-armed bandits downstairs; roulette room open from 10pm. (You need to show a passport for both these and pay an admission charge for the roulette room.)
	ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE La Belle Vie, 7 Quai du Port-Fidèle (tel: 02 51 55 12 12) Friendly service, and sustaining portions of mussels and chips as well as grills, eels, and crêpes on the quayside overlooking the fishing harbour.
Photo: Angela Bird	ST-JEAN-DE-MONTS La Chaise Longue, Plage des Demoiselles (tel: 02 28 11 64 41) Sophisticated crêperie (pancake fillings include scallops and other choice shellfish; dessert ones are just as unexpected) in a smart portakabin-style construction right on the beach. It’s at the southern end of the St-Jean seafront - the address is officially St-Hilaire-de-Riez. Not cheap. Best to book. Open May-September, daily.
Photo: Richard Leader	ST-JEAN-DE-MONTS Tante Paulette, 32 Rue Neuve (tel: 02 51 58 01 12) RICHARD LEADER WRITES: Despite the restaurant seeming deserted, we had a lovely meal. For just 15 euros we ate like fat kings for a while. The seafood platter (see left) was way more than I expected, with oysters, langoustines, prawns, clams, winkles and more (not bad for a starter on a set menu!)
	ST-JEAN-DE-MONTS Le Petit St Jean, 128 Route de Notre-Dame-de-Monts (tel: 02 51 59 78 50) In spite of a slightly over-decorated setting, the food served by Jacques Rondeau at this pleasant restaurant on the main road to the north of St-Jean is delicious. Booking essential, as the place is popular with knowledgeable - and smartly-dressed - locals. Menus 20€-33€. Closed Mon
Photo: Chris Deards	SION-SUR-L'OCEAN Café de la Plage, 1 Rue de l'Océan (tel: 02 51 54 51 76) CHRIS DEARDS WRITES: This pretty little Victorian-style building stands right on the seafront, giving excellent views south towards the cliffs of Sion and north along the glorious sweep of sand that makes up St-Hilaire-de-Riez beach. It's fairly basic - just a wooden-floored café - and the service was a little slow, but the atmosphere was good and the staff very friendly. We had oysters to start, followed by superb moules (9.20 euros in 2006), all washed down with reasonable wines that don't break the bank.

2. LA ROCHE, LES SABLES AND THE BAS-BOCAGE

Aizenay, Apremont, L'Aubonnière, Avrillé, Beaulieu-sous-La-Roche, Brem-sur-Mer, Brétignolles-sur-Mer, La Chaize-le-Vicomte, Coëx, Jard-sur-Mer, Maché, La Mothe-Achard, Moutiers-les-Mauxfaits, Nesmy, Olonne-sur-Mer, Palluau, Le Poiré-sur-Vie, Poiroux, La Roche-sur-Yon, Les Sables-d'Olonne,
St-Étienne-du-Bois, St-Révérend, Talmont-St-Hilaire.

Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

For some more reviews of restaurants in the Talmont/Les Sables area, visit Michael Julien's website

	APREMONT Hotel du Centre, opposite château (tel: 02 51 55 70 22) Rather too many British voices to be heard at times, but the food can be excellent - particularly the mussels. You can eat outside on the terrace, or inside in the cool. At weekends it's best to book, as there are often weddings or other family parties.
Photo: Angela Bird	CHATEAU-D'OLONNE Le Cayola, on D32B, 7km SE of Les Sables (tel: 02 51 22 01 01) Superbly sophisticated restaurant on the top of the cliff, overlooking Cayola Bay, with trendy decking stretching out seawards between diners and the water. Though expensive - evening menus from 25 euros (2003) - the food is a dream, and the setting ultra-romantic - but you need to book some time ahead. Obtained a Michelin star in 2007. Closed Sun evening and Mon (except in June, July and August)
Photo: Angela Bird	LA ROCHE-SUR-YON Brasserie Le Clemenceau, 41 Rue Georges Clemenceau (tel: 02 51 37 10 20) CHARLES HARRISS WRITES: The Rivière brothers have the biggest-turnover brasserie in town. The standard of food is always good (it's where the locals eat), all suppliers are listed on the menu, and the seafood is excellent. Very lively atmosphere. Absolutely our favourite (and I insist on good food and value for money). Menus 110F-160F (2000). NB The tiger's head, in the restaurant's logo, recalls the nickname of fiery WWI politician Georges Clemenceau: "le tigre". Open midday to midnight 7/7; closed 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec.
Photo: St Charles website	LA ROCHE-SUR-YON Le Saint Charles, 38 Rue de Gaulle (tel: 02 51 47 71 37) Delicious food, impeccably cooked and served by the Hermouet family, who - if you need help making your choice - speak excellent English. Menus, with jazz-themed names, at 132F, 159F and above, plus à la carte (2001). A couple of drawbacks: the irritating habit of giving ladies copies of the menu without prices; and the hard edges of the chairs - it can take a bit of time to get the circulation moving again after a convivial evening around the table. From the huge Place Napoléon, follow the nose of Napoleon's horse to find the street... Closed Sat lunchtime and Sun (though open for pre-booked groups Sun midday). Restaurant closed throughout August.
Photo: Bistrot du Boucher	LA ROCHE-SUR-YON Bistrot du Boucher, 10 Rue de Verdun (tel: 02 51 09 90 42) Steaks, poultry, fish all cooked in straightforward fashion at this franchise restaurant. The good-value lunchtime menu makes it a popular midday stop for office workers in La Roche – especially those from the nearby Conseil General. Open lunch and evening 7/7.
Photo: Angela Bird	LES SABLES-D'OLONNE Villa Dilecta, 15 Boulevard Kennedy (tel: 02 51 23 85 68) Exquisite 1930s villa, now converted into a chic and fairly expensive restaurant overlooking the sea at the very farthest SE extremity of the remblai, or promenade. Slightly fussy service is outweighed by the lovely décor and, of course, the wonderful fishy menus by Jean-Pascal Vallée, whose counts sea bass and lobster among his specialities. Menus 32€ to 94 € (2008). Closed Sun evg & Mon. Lunch 12h15-1h45 ; dinner 20h-20h45
	LES SABLES-D'OLONNE Bistrot du Port, 7 Quai Garnier - on fishing port (tel: 02 51 21 55 45) Quite the most delicious mussels we have ever tasted; you can choose from four or five different ways (try the creamy, curry-flavoured mouclade), at around 45F (2000). Plenty of other dishes as well for those who don't like mussels. Closed Mon.
Photo: Angela Bird	LES SABLES-D'OLONNE La Pilotine, 7 Promenade Georges-Clemenceau (tel: 02 51 22 25 25) Discreetly located on the seafront, Philippe Pleuën’s restaurant is the place for reliably excellent meals (not surprising, as the patron/chef trained at Taillevent - among other prestigious restaurants - and is a certificated "disciple of Auguste Escoffier"). Weekday lunch menu 15€ (2007); other menus up to 39€. Closed Mon, & also Tues out of season.
Photo: Angela Bird	LES SABLES D'OLONNE La Fleur des Mers, 5 Quai Guiné - on fishing port (tel: 02 51 95 18 10) Good food served overlooking the fishing harbour. Best view from the tables on the higher level, up several steps. Menus 19 € - 32 € (2003).
Photo: Angela Bird	LES SABLES D'OLONNE L’Affiche, 21 Quai Guiné - on fishing port (tel: 02 51 95 34 74) Good quality, good value place on fishing harbour, but best to book as it’s small and popular.
	LES SABLES (LA CHAUME) Le Port, 24 Quai George V (tel: 02 51 32 07 52) Good, unpretentious cooking, in this restaurant across the water from Les Sables, with lovely view over harbour entrance from first floor front. (If you sit in the first floor back, you only see a painted version, on the walls!) Closed Tues evening and all day Wed.
	LES SABLES (LA CHAUME) Le George V, 20 Quai George V (tel: 02 51 95 11 52) Olivier Burban turns out some stylish dishes at this waterside restaurant. Ask for a table by the window for a lovely view over the entrance to the fishing harbour and marina. Almost next to Le Port (see above).
	LES SABLES (LA CHAUME) Loulou Panoramique, 19 Route Bleue, La Chaume (tel: 02 51 21 32 32) Behind its rather unprepossessing exterior, Loulou offers fantastic panoramic views over the sea to accompany the delicious dishes created by Jean-Pierre Houga - many of them based on the excellent, local seafood. (Follow the road along the quayside at La Chaume, then round to the right, along the cliff road, almost to the end - 2km in all - and the restaurant is on the left.) Closed Sun evg, Mon evg and Thurs evg out of season; closed all day Monday during summer season.
No picture available	TALMONT-ST-HILAIRE Le Cottage, 60 Avenue de Luçon (tel: 02 51 96 04 61) EDWIN APPS WRITES: We usually eat at this restaurant on the main road on the way back from Les Sables. It is excellent, not expensive and has a nice, welcoming atmosphere.

3. LUÇON, LA TRANCHE AND THE MARAIS POITEVIN

L'Aiguillon-sur-Mer, Angles, Arçais, Chaillé-les-Marais, Coulon, Esnandes, La Faute-sur-Mer, Longeville-sur-Mer, Luçon, Maillé, Maillezais, Marans, Mareuil-sur-Lay, Moutiers-sur-le-Lay,
La Rochelle, St-Cyr-en-Talmondais, Ste-Hermine, St-Michel-en-l'Herm, La Tranche-sur-Mer, Triaize, Velluire, La Venise Verte.

Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

	L'AIGUILLON-SUR-MER Chez Gégène, Le Port (tel: 02 51 56 40 43) ERNA DE CLERCK WRITES: This large bar-restaurant across from the fishing harbour is the perfect place for lovers of shellfish. Oysters and mussels are practically landed at your feet, so they couldn't be fresher!
	CHARRON (Charente-Maritime) Theddy Moules, 72 Rue du 14 Juillet (tel: 05 46 01 51 29) The plumpest mussels anywhere are served at this simple roadside eaterie on the north side of the village. The succulent molluscs are cultivated on stakes and on ropes in the mud-rich Aiguillon Bay, a mussel-shell’s throw down the road. Menu express: “Theddy” moules (cooked in cream and Pineau sauce), chips and fruit tart 14.50€ (2007). Also à la carte. You can buy fresh mussels to take away amd cook yourself. Open May to September only.
	LONGEVILLE-SUR-MER Les Flots Bleus, Plage du Rocher, Les Conches JO DALE WRITES: One of our favourite bistrots/cafés, within walking distance of La Tranche, serving omelettes, salads, galettes and - especially - desserts. Open all year round (our children had breakfast there on New Year's Day!). Very busy in season; English spoken. The beach is a wonderful hunting-ground for fossils (look near the low-tide line).
Photo: Gareth Parfitt	LONGEVILLE-SUR-MER Bud House Cafe, Les Conches GARETH PARFITT WRITES: The best pub/bar in the Vendée, with keen prices, pub games, regular live music - and a great, friendly atmosphere. Located near one of the Vendée's best surfing beaches, it has a large decked promenade out front leading to pseudo-hawaiian bar area. Proprietor Michel Bouisson is a rugby fanatic, and keeps a collection of sporting memorabilia in the adjacent "Bar des Six Nations". Good snack shack selling tasty and inexpensive food, and a good restaurant next door, too.
	LUÇON Café du Commerce, corner of Rue Clemenceau and Place du Commerce, outside cathedral Good croque-monsieurs (toasted cheese sandwiches) at this busy café, opposite Richelieu's statue, left, on the north side of the cathedral. Easy parking in the huge square opposite the cathedral's main door.
Photo: La Mirabelle web site	LUÇON La Mirabelle, 89 bis rue du Président de Gaulle (tel: 02 51 02.51.56.93.02. ERNA DE CLERCK WRITES: Owner Benoit Hermouet produces fine cuisine, using specialties of the Vendée and of the sea. On the expensive side (menus 23-46  euros, 2007).
	MAILLEZAIS Le Collibert, Rue principale (tel: 02 51 87 25 07) CHARLES HARRISS WRITES: If the sight of Maillezais' imposing ruined abbey on the edge of the marshes is not enough, then this restaurant on the town's main street will provide an experience of a different kind. Bernard Patarin's menu is very much "terroir" (based on traditional local produce), and includes eels and the "dish of the 27 snails (or lumas)". We lived to tell the tale, but it's probably not for the faint-hearted. Menus from 130F-350F (2000). Closed Jan and Feb, and Sun evening and Mon out of season.
Photo: Court d'Aron web site	ST CYR EN TALMONDAIS La Court d'Aron, 1 Allée des Tilleuls, on edge of the Parc Floral (tel: 02 51 30 81 80) CHARLES HARRISS WRITES: Dominique Orizet cooked in the UK for years and so "English-is-spoken" with a vengeance at this pretty place, in the shadow of a 19th-century château. Confident cooking of a high standard. Not cheap but always good value. Check out the website for some sample menus. Closed Sun -Tues evening and Wed in winter; mid-season closed Sun evg and Wed; summer closed Sun evg.
Photo: from Auberge website	VELLUIRE Auberge de la Rivière, Rue Fouarne (tel: 02 51 52 32 15) In a tranquil position overlooking the river Vendée (watch for signposts from village centre), this 11 room hotel, a 2-chimney Logis de France, has a dining room at the water's edge. Under new ownership, the food from the kitchen of Fabrice Riefolo is to die for, and still surprisingly reasonable in price (menus 26 to 50€, 2008). Rooms, some in a building across the courtyard, are simple, modern and pristine and priced from 50€. Closed Sun evening and Mon (July-Sept, closed Mon lunchtime only).

4. FONTENAY, POUZAUGES AND THE HAUT-BOCAGE

Bazoges-en-Pareds, Chantonnay, La Chataigneraie, Cheffois, Faymoreau-les-Mines,
Fontenay-le-Comte, Foussais-Payré, Mervent, Moncoutant, Monsireigne, Mouilleron-en-Pareds, Nieul-sur-l'Autise, Niort, Poitiers, Pouzauges, St-Michel-le-Cloucq, St-Michel-Mont-Mercure,
St-Prouant, Vouvant.

Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

Photo: Colin Ellis	BAZOGES-EN-PAREDS Auberge du Donjon, 28 Rue de la Poste (tel: 02 51 51 20 07) COLIN ELLIS AND FAMILY WRITE: Aperitifs outside in summer, and a roaring log fire indoors in winter make a welcoming atmosphere at all times of year in this elegantly restored stone building. Try the salade du donjon, with its mixture of meats and leaves, or caviare d'aubergines, followed by delicious pork fillet, and rounded off with a plateful of tiny portions of every dessert in the house. Around 18€ (2003). Closed Wed, and also Tues from mid-Sept to mid-June.
Picture: Moulin Migné website	CHEFFOIS Ferme-Auberge du Moulin Migné (tel: 02 51 69 68 76) Great food at this pretty farm-restaurant, with meat and veg home-produced by Roland, and cooked and served with energy and enthusiasm by Isabelle. You must reserve at least 24 hours in advance. They will do vegetarian dishes if requested a day ahead. The auberge is signposted down the country lanes, to the south of the D949bis. Menus from 19€ (2008).
Picture: Fontarabie website	FONTENAY-LE-COMTE La Fontarabie, 57 Rue de la République (tel: 02 51 69 17 24) ERNA DE CLERCK WRITES: The Glycine (wisteria) restaurant of this two-star Logis hotel - a former coaching inn, but now thoroughly modernised - on Fontenay's lower main street serves good salads, lamb and local dishes. Avoid the chips, though! My family are connoisseurs, and we found these something of a let-down... PS: from Angela: I noticed that this restaurant does offer a vegetarian option on its menus – a rare thing in the Vendée.