Angela Bird's Vendee: Where to eat

ANGELA BIRD'S

The
Vendée

WHAT TO EAT IN THE VENDÉE,
AND WHERE TO EAT IT

To put you in the mood, here is a piece I did recently on gastronomy in the Vendée for
“Food and Travel” magazine (June 2008 issue).
It is a big file (11 megabytes) – with
lots of beautiful images by Vendée-based photographer Roger Stowell - so be patient as it may take a few minutes to download...

FOOD SPECIALITIES


As everywhere in France, the Vendée has its culinary specialities. In this seaside area you would expect to find fish and shellfish - and you certainly won't be disappointed. Sardines and sea-bass, lobsters and langoustines, mussels, scallops, crabs, cockles, skate, tuna, sole and mackerel turn up in abundance in fish markets and restaurants.	The staple food, found on menus everywhere in the Vendée - where it is often served with local gammon - is the small white haricot bean traditionally simmered slowly for hours and known as the "mogette". It is grown particularly around Les Brouzils and Le Poiré-sur-Vie.	Poultry farming is big, particularly around Challans. The nearby marshes were famous for duck-rearing, and the town can still boast of being the "duck capital" of France. Poultry-raising now includes the "poulet noir", a free-range, black-feathered chicken (its meat being of such renown that the birds are now on sale in Selfridge's Food Hall!).

RESTAURANTS

I am taking the brave step of recommending, below, a few of our favourite restaurants.
This is probably unwise. Either everyone will disagree heartily with
our judgments, or we'll never be able to get a table ourselves any more! I disclaim all
responsibility - so don't sue me if your meal wasn't up to expectations...

Unless I've marked these establishments as wildly cheap, or fiendishly expensive,
you can take it that they're in a medium price range - say about 20 euros per head.
However, as French office workers expect to eat out well and cheaply at
midday, you'll often find exceptionally good-value lunches (around 15 euros) on offer from
Monday to Friday - even in the most expensive restaurant.

Here is a link to Les Toques Vendéennes - a group of 20 mostly long-established eating
establishments that have joined forces to market themselves
through a booklet that you can pick up in participating restaurants and tourist offices.

2008
Three chefs in the Vendée have been awarded Michelin stars.

If you want to sample their output, here they are
(Weekday lunchtime menus often have a good-value option)

Area 1. Alexandre Couillon, La Marine, L’Herbaudière, Noirmoutier island.
Area 2. Raphael Rolland, Le Cayola, Le Château-d’Olonne.
Area 5. Thierry Drapeau, Logis de la Chabotterie, St-Sulpice-le-Verdon.

To help location, I'm going to divide the Vendée - and surrounding area - up
into the same six sections as I have for the guidebook.

1. CHALLANS, ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE AND THE ISLANDS	2. LA ROCHE, LES SABLES AND THE BAS-BOCAGE	3. LUÇON, LA TRANCHE AND THE MARAIS POITEVIN
4. FONTENAY, POUZAUGES AND THE HAUT-BOCAGE	5. LES HERBIERS, CHOLET AND PUY-DU-FOU	6. NANTES, ST-NAZAIRE AND LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE

Some of these establishments we haven't revisited for some time, so no
guarantees, but if you're devoid of ideas then these are probably still worth trying.
Nobody said our tastes were going to be the same as yours though...

If you're prepared to share any of your own discoveries,
do mail me a short piece and I'll give you due credit on the page !

1. CHALLANS, ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE AND THE ISLANDS

La Barre-de-Monts, Beauvoir-sur-Mer, Bois-de-Céné, Bouin, Challans, Châteauneuf, Commequiers, Fromentine, La Garnache, Ile de Noirmoutier, Notre-Dame-de-Monts, St-Christophe-du-Ligneron, St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, St-Hilaire-de-Riez, St-Jean-de-Monts, Sallertaine, Soullans, Ile d'Yeu.

Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

Photo: Beauvoir tourist office website

BEAUVOIR-SUR-MER
Auberge des Etiers l’Ampan, Route de Fromentine (D22), Beauvoir-sur-Mer (tel: 02 51 68 75 41)
KEITH SHEPHERD WRITES:
If you’re in the area and fancy a good meal, the family-run Auberge des Etiers is definitely worth a visit. They have a 19€ menu which seems to change on a fairly regular basis, and we’ve never had a bad meal in our three or four visits. It’s on the main road between Fromentine and Beauvoir, just after the aerodrome.

Photo: Angela Bird

BOUIN
Bar à Huîtres : Fleurs des Flots, Port des Brochets (tel: 02 51 68 84 23)
Sébastien Lusseau – himself an oyster fisherman - and his sister have opened a trendy little oyster bar on the waterfront of one of Bourgneuf Bay’s oyster ports. You can see the boats come in and out as you tuck into the freshest mussels and oysters downstairs, or up on the first-floor sun-deck. It’s located on the north side of the channel, so a very sunny aspect. Open daily from 10am.

Photo: Chez Charles website

CHALLANS
Chez Charles, 8 Place du Champ de Foire (tel: 02 51 93 36 65)
Chic restaurant on the large square where the Tuesday-morning market is held, with sophisticated modern décor and beautifully- presented food. Specialities include local foie gras and Challans duck. Menus from 16€ to 46€ (2006). Closed Sun evening and Mon (July & August, closed Sun evening only), and also from late Dec to late Jan.

Photo: Le Gourmandin website

CHALLANS

Le Gourmandin, 73 rue Bonne-Fontaine (tel: 02 51 35 39 09)

JOHN BROMHALL WRITES:

This restaurant near the hospital is run by a young couple, Maude and Stephane: he is the chef, she does front of house. Menus at around 18€ and 21€ (2007 prices) both include fish and meat dishes. There’s à la carte, and also a 'carte blanche' - the contents of which depend on what is available in the market. Food preparation and presentation are excellent. Here in Edinburgh we would pay 2-3 times the cost and think we had good value for money. It’s worth booking in advance as we did on a wet January night. Closed Sunday evening, Monday, and Wednesday evening.

Angela adds: I ate here at lunchtime on a Tuesday in winter (market day), and was rather disappointed. I was given a table by the toilets (although the restaurant was not by any means full), and thought the lunchtime menu very basic. But maybe I should try the evening, as John recommends.

CHALLANS

Le Don Camillo, 53 r Gambetta (tel: 02 51 49 02 93)

JOHN BROMHALL WRITES:

As its name suggests, this restaurant near the station serves predominantly pizza & pasta - but with a French influence. It’s ideal for a cheap and cheerful meal; we have been a number of times and not been disappointed.

Photo: Angela Bird

COMMEQUIERS
Hotel de la Gare (tel: 02 51 54 80 38)
RICHARD GARLICK WRITES:
Traditional Sunday lunches are a favourite family outing here, so best to book in advance. Attractively-decorated 19th-century building, opposite village's former railway station and just across the road from the Vélo-Rail. Leafy garden. play area just outside the dining room. If you order in advance, you can enjoy a varied plateau of fruits de mer at 35 euros per head - not cheap, but we considered excellent value. Service good but a little slow at busy times. Closed Mon.

Photo: Angela Bird

LA GARNACHE
Le Petit St-Thomas, 11 Boulevard des Platanes (tel: 02 51 49 05 99)
RICHARD GARLICK WRITES:
The friendly young owners, Magali and David Bourmaud, have taken the restaurant opposite the gates of La Garnache's ruined castle up-market with an ambitious menu. Some dishes are more successful than others but we gave them full marks for effort; desserts were particularly good. Very attractive interior. Booking advised for dinner, particularly weekends. Menus from 23.50€ (2009). 2008: Has a mention in the Guide Michelin for good-value good food. Ample parking. Closed Sun evg, Mon all day, and Wed evening.

Photo: Angela Bird

GIVRAND
Ferme-Auberge du Rocher; opposite Dauphins Bleus campsite (tel: 02 51 54 59 04)
The interior of the old barn that houses this "farm-inn" has suffered rather an insensitive transformation, with its plastic-framed windows and corrugated roof giving it a slightly bleak aspect. However the outside has been painted with dazzling murals, left, and the good-value food - based on produce of the farm - is excellent. It does pay to be keen on duck, though, as Madame Audéon and her husband specialise in foie gras, magrets, rillettes and other delicacies, which you can also buy at the farm shop. 11€-32€ (2009). Open midday; also evening from 1 June to 30 Sept. Closed Sun evg & Mon.

Photo of L’Herbaudière: © Antoine Vairet

NOIRMOUTIER (L’Herbaudière)
La Cambuse, Port de Plaisance (Marina), L’Herbaudière (tel: 02 51 35 72 27)
One of a row of restaurants along the newly-renovated harbour front of this attractive port on the north coast of Noirmoutier that offers indoor and outdoor dining. The Cambuse has menus from 17€ (2006), and an emphasis on grills and seafood.

Photo Angela Bird

NOIRMOUTIER (L’Herbaudière)
La Marine & La Tante Elise, Port de Plaisance (Marina), L’Herbaudière (tel: 02 51 39 23 09)
Young chef and Michelin-starholder Alexandre Couillon has won high praise from French gourmet guides for his interesting twists on the seafood that is landed outside his door, as well as on other ingredients (try his green-pea sorbet!). La Marine, with just 25 covers, is newly fitted out (2008) in fantastic black and white decor; menus from around 55€. He has also opened a slightly cheaper place next door called La Table d’Elise (photograph, left) where you can enjoy lunch for just 18.50€ (2008) in a friendly atmosphere and relaxed setting. Closed Sun evg, Tues evg & all day Wed.
Obtained a Michelin star for La Marine in 2007

Photo: Auberge du Relais website

LE PERRIER
Auberge Le Relais (tel: 02 51 68 32 28)
Though unpromisingly located on the main road from Challans to St-Jean-de-Monts, this restaurant offers a surprisingly peaceful setting looking out over open marshland – and most important, utterly delicious food! Look for Challans duck, eel, frongs’ legs, seafood. Menus from around 27 euro. (2008); booking essential Closed Mon off-season.

Photo: Angela Bird

ST-GERVAIS
Auberge Le Marais 46 Rue du Villebon (tel: 02 51 49 39 77)
Prominently located on the Challans-to-Beauvoir road through the village, this is a friendly 2-star Logis hotel, with a locally-reputed restaurant. Menus from 14.50€ (2009) feature oysters, mussels, eels, duck and other produce from the surrounding marshes.

Photo: Angela Bird

ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
Le Safran, Bd de l’Egalité (tel: 02 51 55 60 15)
Looking unprepossessing from the road (near the tourist office), this popular restaurant has a terrace at the back overlooking the St Gilles yacht marina. Good-value lunches, with daily specials. Occasional musical entertainment in the evenings.

Photo: Boisvinet website

ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
Le Boisvinet, 2 Rue Louis-Cristau, overlooking Boisvinet beach (tel: 02 51 55 51 77)
A super makeover in 2007 has given this seafront restaurant, on the north side of the estuary and fishing port, a new lease of life. Cool modern decor in shades of “taupe” (beige), and bleached driftwood–and a cool modern menu to go with it with touches of exoticism and spices. Menus from 19.80€. Closed Sun evg, Tues evg & Wed. (July & Aug, open daily)

Photo: Angela Bird

ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
Casino, 2 Quai Garcie-Ferrande (tel: 02 51 60 09 29)
It may seem odd to recommend a gaming joint, but the brasserie inside St-Gilles' modern casino is open to all - gamblers and non-gamblers alike - from coffee-time to the small hours of the morning. Located on the first floor, it has huge sliding windows overlooking the estuary of the river Vie, and serves good-value meals for around 20 euros (2008), with occasional "themed" evenings when you can eat couscous, curry etc. Open daily all year, and still animated even in winter.
One-armed bandits downstairs; roulette room open from 10pm. (You need to show a passport for both these and pay an admission charge for the roulette room.)

Photo: Angela Bird

ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
Le Marlow, Grande Plage (tel: 02 51 55 57 94)
Excellent-value meals (menus at 9.90 euros, 2009) at this small restaurant along the seafront promenade. Friendly service, and sustaining portions of mussels and chips as well as other dishes.

No picture yet.

ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
Les Océanides, Place du Marché aux Herbes (tel: 02 28 10 04 95)
Smart restaurant with fishy specialities and seaside-influenced décor. Not cheap, but excellent quality.

Photo: Angela Bird

ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
La Riviera, 3 Quai Rivière (tel: 02 51 55 55 30)
The best pizzas ever, with thin crusts, and luscious fillings that can feature such delicacies as coquilles st jacques, or fresh anchovies. Or order a dish of mussels, and you will literally receive a boat-ful.

Photo: Angela Bird

ST-JEAN-DE-MONTS
La Chaise Longue, Plage des Demoiselles (tel: 02 28 11 64 41)
Sophisticated crêperie (pancake fillings include scallops and other choice shellfish; dessert ones are just as unexpected) in a smart portakabin-style construction right on the beach. It’s at the southern end of the St-Jean seafront - the address is officially St-Hilaire-de-Riez. Not cheap. Best to book. Open May-September, daily.

Photo: Richard Leader

ST-JEAN-DE-MONTS
Tante Paulette, 32 Rue Neuve (tel: 02 51 58 01 12)
RICHARD LEADER WRITES:
Despite the restaurant seeming deserted, we had a lovely meal. For just 15 euros we ate like fat kings for a while. The seafood platter (see left) was way more than I expected, with oysters, langoustines, prawns, clams, winkles and more (not bad for a starter on a set menu!)

Photo: Angela Bird

ST-JEAN-DE-MONTS
Le Petit St Jean, 128 Route de Notre-Dame-de-Monts (tel: 02 51 59 78 50)
In spite of a slightly over-decorated setting, the food served by Jacques Rondeau at this pleasant restaurant on the main road to the north of St-Jean is delicious. Booking essential, as the place is popular with knowledgeable - and smartly-dressed - locals. Menus 20€-33€. Closed Mon

Photo: Angela Bird

ST-JEAN-DE-MONTS
Le Robinson, 28 Boulevard Leclerc (tel: 02 51 59 20 20)
This 2-star Logis hotel does not look much at first glance, but the locals know its reputation for fine food (it boasts three of the coveted Logis “casseroles”), and they cram the restaurant accordingly. Menus from 16€ (midweek lunch). Booking advisable.

Photo: Chris Deards

SION-SUR-L'OCEAN
Café de la Plage, 1 Rue de l'Océan (tel: 02 51 54 51 76)
CHRIS DEARDS WRITES:
This pretty little Victorian-style building stands right on the seafront, giving excellent views south towards the cliffs of Sion and north along the glorious sweep of sand that makes up St-Hilaire-de-Riez beach. It's fairly basic - just a wooden-floored café - and the service was a little slow, but the atmosphere was good and the staff very friendly. We had oysters to start, followed by superb moules (9.20 euros in 2006), all washed down with reasonable wines that don't break the bank.

Photo: Angela Bird

ILE D’YEU
La Crêperie Bleue, Port Joinville
Waterfront restaurant (harbour view only for those on the outdoor front terrace !), with good salads and pancakes of various sorts. Near the cycle-hire end of the front.

2. LA ROCHE, LES SABLES AND THE BAS-BOCAGE

Aizenay, Apremont, L'Aubonnière, Avrillé, Beaulieu-sous-La-Roche, Brem-sur-Mer, Brétignolles-sur-Mer, La Chaize-le-Vicomte, Coëx, Jard-sur-Mer, Maché, La Mothe-Achard, Moutiers-les-Mauxfaits, Nesmy, Olonne-sur-Mer, Palluau, Le Poiré-sur-Vie, Poiroux, La Roche-sur-Yon, Les Sables-d'Olonne,
St-Étienne-du-Bois, St-Révérend, Talmont-St-Hilaire.

Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

For some more reviews of restaurants in the Talmont/Les Sables area, visit Michael Julien's website

APREMONT
Hotel du Centre, opposite château (tel: 02 51 55 70 22)
Rather too many British voices to be heard at times, but the food can be excellent - particularly the mussels. You can eat outside on the terrace, or inside in the cool. At weekends it's best to book, as there are often weddings or other family parties.

no picture yet

APREMONT
Le Cabanon, along lakeside road, past the barrage (dam) (tel: 02 51 55 72 13)
Simple décor, but good position overlooking the sandy lake beach that is so popular with British visitors. Good-value menus at lunchtime and evening, with stuffed mussels and steak-&-chips, and simpler fare such as pizzas and pancakes.

Photo: Angela Bird

AUBIGNY
Le Bel’Arôme, 5 Rue St-Laurent (tel: 02 51 98 08 74).
An attractively decorated restaurant-pizzeria with an Italian flavour, serving good pizzas, pasta and other dishes (takeaway pizzas also available). Set on a corner, just down from the church. Closed Mon all day, Sat lunch and Sun lunch.

Photo: Angela Bird

BELLEVILLE-SUR-VIE
Caffe Ristorante Pimento, HyperU, on southern edge of town
A sparse industrial-style decor for this trendy restaurant in the unlikely setting of the HyperU supermarket. It’s hugely popular with local businessmen, so turn up early (noon), or be prepared for a wait. Plat du jour around 14 euros (2008); pizzas from 7 euros.

Photo: Angela Bird

LE CHATEAU D’OLONNE
Le Puits d’Enfer, 56 Boulevard de Lattre de Tassigny - on coast road 6km SE of Les Sables d’Olonne (tel: 02 51 21 52 77)
Delightful, airy restaurant with sea views from its clifftop position (opposite the gully of the same name that produces spectacular water effects in stormy weather). Fans of the vanished Champ de Foire restaurant in Challans will be delighted to find that the Soreaus have brought their light, crisp flavours and signature fishy dishes with them. You can eat outside on a sheltered terrace, as well as in the modern interior. Easy parking opposite. Closed Sun evg, Mon all day, & Wed evg (July & Aug may be open 7/7).

Photo: Angela Bird

LE CHATEAU-D'OLONNE
Le Cayola, on D32B, 7km SE of Les Sables (tel: 02 51 22 01 01)
Superbly sophisticated restaurant on the top of the cliff, overlooking Cayola Bay, with trendy decking stretching out seawards between diners and the water. Though expensive - evening menus from 39 euros (2009) - the food is a dream, and the setting ultra-romantic - but you need to book some time ahead.
Obtained a Michelin star in 2007.
Closed Sun evening and Mon (except in June, July and August)

Photo: Angela Bird

LA ROCHE-SUR-YON
Brasserie Le Clemenceau, 41 Rue Georges Clemenceau (tel: 02 51 37 10 20)
CHARLES HARRISS WRITES:
The Rivière brothers have the biggest-turnover brasserie in town. The standard of food is always good (it's where the locals eat), all suppliers are listed on the menu, and the seafood is excellent. Very lively atmosphere. Absolutely our favourite (and I insist on good food and value for money). Menus 110F-160F (2000). NB The tiger's head, in the restaurant's logo, recalls the nickname of fiery WWI politician Georges Clemenceau: "le tigre". Open midday to midnight 7/7; closed 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec.

Photo: St Charles website

LA ROCHE-SUR-YON
Le Saint Charles, 38 Rue de Gaulle (tel: 02 51 47 71 37)
Delicious food, impeccably cooked and served by the Hermouet family, who - if you need help making your choice - speak excellent English. Menus, with jazz-themed names, at 132F, 159F and above, plus à la carte (2001). A couple of drawbacks: the irritating habit of giving ladies copies of the menu without prices; and the hard edges of the chairs - it can take a bit of time to get the circulation moving again after a convivial evening around the table. From the huge Place Napoléon, follow the nose of Napoleon's horse to find the street... Closed Sat lunchtime and Sun (though open for pre-booked groups Sun midday). Restaurant closed throughout August.

Photo: Bistrot du Boucher

LA ROCHE-SUR-YON
Bistrot du Boucher, 10 Rue de Verdun (tel: 02 51 09 90 42)
Steaks, poultry, fish all cooked in straightforward fashion at this franchise restaurant. The good-value lunchtime menu makes it a popular midday stop for office workers in La Roche – especially those from the nearby Conseil General. Open lunch and evening 7/7.

Photo: Bistrot duPort website

LES SABLES-D'OLONNE
Bistrot du Port, 7 Quai Garnier - on fishing port (tel: 02 51 21 55 45)
Quite the most delicious mussels we have ever tasted; you can choose from four or five different ways (try the creamy, curry-flavoured mouclade), at around 9EEE (2008). Plenty of other dishes as well for those who don't like mussels. Closed Sun.

Photo: Angela Bird

LES SABLES-D'OLONNE
La Pilotine, 7 Promenade Georges-Clemenceau (tel: 02 51 22 25 25)
Discreetly located on the seafront, Philippe Pleuën’s restaurant is the place for reliably excellent meals (not surprising, as the patron/chef trained at Taillevent - among other prestigious restaurants - and is a certificated "disciple of Auguste Escoffier"). Weekday lunch menu 16€ (2009); other menus up to 46€. Closed Mon, & also Tues out of season.

Photo: Angela Bird

LES SABLES D'OLONNE
La Fleur des Mers, 5 Quai Guiné - on fishing port (tel: 02 51 95 18 10)
Good food served overlooking the fishing harbour. Best view from the tables on the higher level, up several steps. Menus 19 € - 32 € (2003).

Photo: Angela Bird

LES SABLES D'OLONNE
L’Affiche, 21 Quai Guiné - on fishing port (tel: 02 51 95 34 74)
Good quality, good value place on fishing harbour, but best to book as it’s small and popular.

LES SABLES (LA CHAUME)
Le Port, 24 Quai George V (tel: 02 51 32 07 52)
Good, unpretentious cooking, in this restaurant across the water from Les Sables, with lovely view over harbour entrance from first floor front. (If you sit in the first floor back, you only see a painted version, on the walls!) Closed Tues evening and all day Wed.

LES SABLES (LA CHAUME)
Le George V, 20 Quai George V (tel: 02 51 95 11 52)
Olivier Burban turns out some stylish dishes at this waterside restaurant. Ask for a table by the window for a lovely view over the entrance to the fishing harbour and marina. Almost next to Le Port (see above).

LES SABLES (LA CHAUME)
Loulou Panoramique, 19 Route Bleue, La Chaume (tel: 02 51 21 32 32)
Behind its rather unprepossessing exterior, Loulou offers fantastic panoramic views over the sea to accompany the delicious dishes created by Jean-Pierre Houga - many of them based on the excellent, local seafood. Menus from 25€ (weekday lunch, otherwise from 41€. (2009) (Follow the road along the quayside at La Chaume, then round to the right, along the cliff road, almost to the end - 2km in all - and the restaurant is on the left.) Closed Sun evg, Mon evg and Thurs evg out of season; closed all day Monday during summer season.

Photo: Angela Bird

STE-FLAIVE-DES-LOUPS
La Belle Aventure, Les Rochettes, Route de Nieul-le-Dolent (tel: 02 51 34 03 65)
Copious helpings for diners from Myriam and Daniel Remigereau, in a peaceful setting. Also a separate salad menu, for lighter eating. Menus from 17.50€ (in 2009).

No picture available

TALMONT-ST-HILAIRE
Le Cottage, 60 Avenue de Luçon (tel: 02 51 96 04 61)
EDWIN APPS WRITES:
We usually eat at this restaurant on the main road on the way back from Les Sables. It is excellent, not expensive and has a nice, welcoming atmosphere.

3. LUÇON, LA TRANCHE AND THE MARAIS POITEVIN

L'Aiguillon-sur-Mer, Angles, Arçais, Chaillé-les-Marais, Coulon, Esnandes, La Faute-sur-Mer, Longeville-sur-Mer, Luçon, Maillé, Maillezais, Marans, Mareuil-sur-Lay, Moutiers-sur-le-Lay,
La Rochelle, St-Cyr-en-Talmondais, Ste-Hermine, St-Michel-en-l'Herm, La Tranche-sur-Mer, Triaize, Velluire, La Venise Verte.

Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

Photo: Angela Bird	L'AIGUILLON-SUR-MER Chez Gégène, Le Port (tel: 02 51 56 40 43) *ERNA DE CLERCK* *WRITES:* This large bar-restaurant across from the fishing harbour is the perfect place for lovers of shellfish. Oysters and mussels are practically landed at your feet, so they couldn't be fresher! (Angela adds: I stopped here to enjoy a plate of mussels for lunch in Feb 2009, and was hugely disappointed. The place was packed with people enjoying seafood platters, and seeming very happy. I chose the town’s speciality of “moules”, and as its variation - “gégène”, or house, style. Almost half the mussel shells were empty; the flesh that there was was scrawny; the “gégène sauce” was a horrid, cold tomato sauce plonked on top, and in no way part of the cooking process. Stick to the seafood platters here is probably the answer...)
	CHARRON (Charente-Maritime) Theddy Moules, 72 Rue du 14 Juillet (tel: 05 46 01 51 29) The plumpest mussels anywhere are served at this rather basic roadside eaterie on the north side of the village. The succulent molluscs are cultivated on stakes and on ropes in the mud-rich Aiguillon Bay, a mussel-shell’s throw down the road. Menu express: “Theddy” moules (cooked in cream and Pineau sauce), chips and fruit tart 14.50€ (2007). Also à la carte. You can buy fresh mussels to take away amd cook yourself. Open May to September only.
Photo: Angela Bird	LONGEVILLE-SUR-MER Les Flots Bleus, Plage du Rocher, Les Conches *JO DALE WRITES:* One of our favourite bistrots/cafés, within walking distance of La Tranche, serving omelettes, salads, galettes and - especially - desserts. Open all year round (our children had breakfast there on New Year's Day!). Very busy in season; English spoken. The beach is a wonderful hunting-ground for fossils (look near the low-tide line).
Photo: Gareth Parfitt	LONGEVILLE-SUR-MER Bud House Cafe, Les Conches *GARETH PARFITT WRITES:* The best pub/bar in the Vendée, with keen prices, pub games, regular live music - and a great, friendly atmosphere. Located near one of the Vendée's best surfing beaches, it has a large decked promenade out front leading to pseudo-hawaiian bar area. Proprietor Michel Bouisson is a rugby fanatic, and keeps a collection of sporting memorabilia in the adjacent "Bar des Six Nations". Good snack shack selling tasty and inexpensive food, and a good restaurant next door, too.
Photo: Au Fil des Saisons web site	LUÇON Au Fil des Saisons, 55 Route de La Roche (tel: 02 51 56 11 32) *MARTIN HOLMES WRITES:* Under new ownership since 2007, this friendly hotel-restaurant on the north side of Luçon serves inventive and surprising cuisine – which you can enjoy outside in the garden in the summer. The carte, changed completely every couple of months, features lots of local produce, and has a sort of "Vendee tradition re-visited" flavour. Two- or three-course fixed-price formulas start at around 25€ (2008), plus à la carte. Menus are fully translated into English, and Madame Soulard speaks very good English. And you can treat yourself to a Cognac that's your own age - they have all years back to 1955, so I'm still just in ! Restaurant closed Sat lunch, Sun evening and all day Mon.

Photo: Angela Bird	LUÇON Café du Commerce, corner of Rue Clemenceau and Place du Commerce, outside cathedral Good croque-monsieurs (toasted cheese sandwiches) at this busy café, opposite Richelieu's statue, left, on the north side of the cathedral. Easy parking in the huge square opposite the cathedral's main door.
Photo: La Mirabelle web site	LUÇON La Mirabelle, 89 bis rue du Président de Gaulle (tel: 02 51 56 93 02) ERNA DE CLERCK WRITES: Owner Benoit Hermouet produces fine cuisine, using specialties of the Vendée and of the sea. On the expensive side (menus 23-46 euros, 2007).
	MAILLEZAIS Le Collibert, Rue principale (tel: 02 51 87 25 07) *CHARLES HARRISS WRITES:* If the sight of Maillezais' imposing ruined abbey on the edge of the marshes is not enough, then this restaurant on the town's main street will provide an experience of a different kind. Bernard Patarin's menu is very much "terroir" (based on traditional local produce), and includes eels and the "dish of the 27 snails (or lumas)". We lived to tell the tale, but it's probably not for the faint-hearted. Menus from 130F-350F (2000). Closed Jan and Feb, and Sun evening and Mon out of season.
Photo: Court d'Aron web site	ST CYR EN TALMONDAIS La Court d'Aron, 1 Allée des Tilleuls, on edge of the Parc Floral (tel: 02 51 30 81 80) *CHARLES HARRISS WRITES:* Dominique Orizet cooked in the UK for years and so "English-is-spoken" with a vengeance at this pretty place, in the shadow of a 19th-century château. Confident cooking of a high standard. Not cheap but always good value. Check out the website for some sample menus. Closed Sun -Tues evening and Wed in winter; mid-season closed Sun evg and Wed; summer closed Sun evg.
Photo: from Auberge website	VELLUIRE Auberge de la Rivière, Rue Fouarne (tel: 02 51 52 32 15) In a tranquil position overlooking the river Vendée (watch for signposts from village centre), this 11 room hotel, a 2-chimney Logis de France, has a dining room at the water's edge. Under new ownership, the food from the kitchen of Fabrice Riefolo is to die for, and still surprisingly reasonable in price (menus 26 to 50€, 2008). Rooms, some in a building across the courtyard, are simple, modern and pristine and priced from 50€. Closed Sun evening and Mon (July-Sept, closed Mon lunchtime only).

4. FONTENAY, POUZAUGES AND THE HAUT-BOCAGE

Bazoges-en-Pareds, Chantonnay, La Chataigneraie, Cheffois, Faymoreau-les-Mines,
Fontenay-le-Comte, Foussais-Payré, Mervent, Moncoutant, Monsireigne, Mouilleron-en-Pareds, Nieul-sur-l'Autise, Niort, Poitiers, Pouzauges, St-Michel-le-Cloucq, St-Michel-Mont-Mercure,
St-Prouant, Vouvant.

Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

Photo: Colin Ellis

BAZOGES-EN-PAREDS
Auberge du Donjon, 28 Rue de la Poste (tel: 02 51 51 20 07)
COLIN ELLIS AND FAMILY WRITE:
Aperitifs outside in summer, and a roaring log fire indoors in winter make a welcoming atmosphere at all times of year in this elegantly restored stone building. Try the salade du donjon, with its mixture of meats and leaves, or caviare d'aubergines, followed by delicious pork fillet, and rounded off with a plateful of tiny portions of every dessert in the house. Around 18€ (2003). Closed Wed, and also Tues from mid-Sept to mid-June.

Picture:
Moulin Migné website

CHEFFOIS
Ferme-Auberge du Moulin Migné (tel: 02 51 69 68 76)
Great food at this pretty farm-restaurant, with meat and veg home-produced by Roland, and cooked and served with energy and enthusiasm by Isabelle. You must reserve at least 24 hours in advance. They will do vegetarian dishes if requested a day ahead. The auberge is signposted down the country lanes, to the south of the D949bis. Menus from 19€ (2008).

Photo: Angela Bird

FONTENAY-LE-COMTE
La Fontarabie, 57 Rue de la République (tel: 02 51 69 17 24)
ERNA DE CLERCK WRITES:
The Glycine (wisteria) restaurant of this two-star Logis hotel - a former coaching inn, but now thoroughly modernised - on Fontenay's lower main street serves good salads, lamb and local dishes. Avoid the chips, though! My family are connoisseurs, and we found these something of a let-down...
PS: from Angela: I noticed that this restaurant does offer a vegetarian option on its menus – a rare thing in the Vendée.

MERVENT
Crêperie du Château de la Citardière, Les Ouillères (tel: 02 51 00 27 04)
Not as sophisticated as you would think from its address. The crêperie is housed throughout the summer in the courtyard of a sturdy, moated medieval stronghold, illustrated left, and you can eat pancakes and other snacks, indoors or out, from noon till 10pm. Closed Wed.

Photo: Angela Bird

NIORT
André Perrier, inside market hall
Irresistible cooking smells lure hungry shoppers to a small bar area running alongside the passageways inside Niort's beautiful glass market hall. The helpings of braised steak etc are huge, so don't over-order!

PISSOTTE
Crêperie le Pommier, 9 Rue des Gélinières (tel: 02 51 69 08 06)
MICHEL LAGARDE WRITES:
In a pretty house alongside one of the area's vinyards 4km north of Fontenay-le-Comte, Philippe and Michelle Coirier serve generously filled galettes and sweet pancakes, plus salads, puds and other dishes washed down with cider or family-produced rosé. Visit the website and you can print out a voucher for a free aperitif on your first visit! Two rooms and outdoor terrace, children's playground, and a warming fire in winter. Best to book at weekends. Michelle also does painted furniture and objects. Closed Mon.

POUZAUGES
Auberge de la Bruyère, 18 Rue du Docteur-Barbinneau (tel: 02 51 91 93 46)
Fantastic view from the open-air terrace looking out over the hills and valleys of the Bocage, where you can enjoy a splendid panorama while eating a good-value midweek lunch at this Logis hotel-restaurant. Menus 15€-27€ (2008). 2-sdtar hotel rooms from 46€ (2008). Closed Fri evening, Sat all day, & Sun evening (June to September, closed Sat lunch and Sun evg).

Photograph : Angela Bird

ST-HILAIRE-DES-LOGES
Le Pantagruelion, 9 Rue de l'Octroi (tel: 02 51 00 59 19).
Smart restaurant 10km east of Fontenay, where Laurence and Cyril Bretheau present sophisticated dishes such as foie gras with apricot. Closed Sat lunch, Sun evening & all Wed.

ST-MICHEL-LE-CLOUCQ
Ferme-auberge de Mélusine, Place de la Maison Neuve (tel: 02 51 51 07 61)
Extremely good - though not inexpensive - food, from Pascal Raguin, in this farm inn 6km north-east of Fontenay-le-Comte. In a less rustic setting than you might imagine, the restaurant has an imposing entrance on a hard-to-find square in the middle of St-Michel-le-Cloucq (find the Mairie first, then look for a signpost). The name is an allusion to the mythological fairy said to have built castles at Vouvant and a host of other places. Lunch menu 19€ (2005). Open from Easter to end October; closed Wed, and also 1 week in late Oct.

Photograph : Auberge website

ST-MICHEL-MONT-MERCURE
Auberge du Mont Mercure, Place du Sommet (tel: 02 51 57 20 26)
Reasonable food in this restaurant hidden away behind the church in a village that is the highest point in the Vendée. Not cheap (menus start from 23€) - but weekday lunches at 14€ offer a chance for some bargains (2008).

Photograph : Stephanie Nestor

SIGOURNAIS
Le Saturnin, 5 Place de Lespinay (tel: 02 51 40 42 77)
STEPHANIE NESTOR WRITES:
In the village bar/restaurant, new owners - Daniel and Frédérique - are wonderful hosts. They provide good-quality food and varied menus - the weekday lunchtime ouvrier menu is specially good value at 11 euros (2009) for three courses and a carafe of wine. Evening meals are available at weekends in the upstairs restaurant (also open during the week, by prior reservation). Nothing is too much effort: there is a children's menu; they will prepare dishes to take away; and - given 24 hours' notice - can provide an imaginative vegetarian menu. Open 7 days a week from 0730 (closed Wednesday afternoon).

Photograph : Angela Bird

SIGOURNAIS
La Morlière, Lac de Rochereau (tel: 02 51 40 41 98)
ERNA DE CLERCK WRITES:
M et Mme Lucas welcome visitors to their friendly, waterside restaurant overlooking the Lac de Rochereau, a short way north-east of Sigournais - itself some 6km north-east of Chantonnay. (Take the Monsireigne road, and keep going a km or two until you see a sign to the restaurant in the heart of the countryside.) Popular with families for its informal style, good-value set menus and large playground. Closed Mon (and Wed from Sept to June)
2007: Louise Jordan adds the recommendation below:
”We had the most stunning meal; service couldn't have been more friendly or helpful - made all the nicer by their extremely good-natured black labrador.”

5. LES HERBIERS, CHOLET AND PUY-DU-FOU

Les Brouzils, Chavagnes-en-Paillers, Cholet, Clisson, Les Épesses, Les Essarts,
La Gaubretière, Les Herbiers, Legé, Les Lucs-sur-Boulogne, Mallièvre, Mauléon, Montaigu, Mortagne-sur-Sèvre, Mouchamps, Rocheservière, St-Laurent-sur-Sèvre, St-Sulpice-le-Verdon, Tiffauges, Vendrennes.

Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

Photograph : Angela Bird

CLISSON
La Vallée, 1 rue de la Vallée (tel: 02 40 54 36 23)
Sophisticated waterside restaurant, with a lovely view over the Sèvre Nantaise river that flows past Clisson's Italianate buildings. Delightful semi-open terrace with heaters for cooler days. There are some excellent local Muscadets on the wine list. Menus from 19.50€. Closed Sun-Thurs evenings & Mon (1 July-31 Aug, closed Mon, plus Thurs & Sun evenings).

Photograph : Auberge du Lac website

LES LUCS-SUR-BOULOGNE
Auberge du Lac 250 Rue du Général Charette (tel: 02 51 46 59 59)
Lakeside restaurant near the Memorial des Lucs and the new Historial museum. Some hits (lasagne de tourteau is a lovely light crab starter); some misses (John Dory fish with pineapple sauce tastes of nothing but the fruit). Service can be slack. Outdoor eating area overlooking the lake is lovely for warm nights. Menus from 23€ (2006). Closed Sun evg, Tues evg and all day Wed (July and Aug, closed Wed only).

Photograph : La Digue website

MONTAIGU
La Digue, 9 Rue des Abreuvoirs (tel: 02 51 06 34 48)
Tasty grills – fish as well as meat - in this small waterside restaurant overlooking the confluence of the Grande and Petite Maine rivers. Delicious scallops, elegantly presented with langoustines. Menus from 11€-24€ (2006).
(If you are mystified by references to the “digue du cul” at the restaurant, Montaigu’s “digue”, or dyke, is the subject of a well-known bawdy French song – which has been recorded at various times by France’s “Frère Jacques” singing group and by heavy-metal group Vulcain. Hear the song here; read the saucy lyrics here.)

Photo: Angela Bird

ST-SULPICE-LE-VERDON
Thierry Drapeau at La Chabotterie, Logis de la Chabotterie (tel: 02 51 09 59 31)
Thierry Drapeau’s wonderful high-class restaurant in the stable block of the elegant 18th-century country house serves local ingredients such as sea-bass and duck with a new twist. The charming staff bring endless extra goodies to your table, so make sure you are hungry. Weekday lunch menu 35€; otherwise 55-85€. Closed Sun evening-Tues midday.
Obtained a Michelin star in 2006

6. NANTES, ST-NAZAIRE AND LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE

La Baule, Bourgneuf-en-Retz, La Grande-Brière, Guérande, Haute-Goulaine, Machecoul, Moutiers-en-Retz, Nantes, Le Pallet, Passay, Le Pellerin, Pornic, Préfailles, St-Brevin-les-Pins, St-Lumine-de-Coutais, St-Marc-sur-Mer, St-Nazaire, St-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu, Touvois, Vertou.

Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

NANTES
La Cigale, 4 Place Graslin (opposite the opera house) ; (tel: 02 51 84 94 94)
Beautiful brasserie, with Art Nouveau tiles that rival those of Harrod’s food halls. Very busy at lunchtime, but open for meals throughout the day, from breakfast via afternoon tea and through to a post-cinema nightcap. Open every day of the year, 7.30am till midnight.

Photo: Angela Bird

PASSAY
Restaurant des Pêcheurs, 11 Rue du Port de Passay, La Chevrolière (tel: 02 40 04 31 94).
JEAN-CLAUDE ROBERT WRITES:
Old-style restaurant de campagne - originally a fishermen's café - in a row of cottages near the edge of the mysterious Lac de Grand-Lieu. Specialities are, of course, the produce of the lake itself (frogs'-legs, eels and freshwater fish like zander), so it pays to have an adventurous palate. Average price for three-course meal of the day 20 euros (2009) depending how "piggy" you feel and how thirsty you are!. Lunchtimes only; reservation essential in summer.

Photo: Angela Bird

TRENTEMOULT
Le Poussin Rouge, 7 Quai Marcel Boissard (tel: 02 40 75 66 31)
If you can find this pretty waterside village near Nantes, on the south shore of the Loire just to the east of the tall Chéviré bridge, this is one of the eateries with a view over the river. Delicious mussels! Menus from 22€ (2009). Open 7 days a week, lunchtime and evening.

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