ANGELA
BIRD'S
WHAT TO EAT IN THE VENDÉE, AND WHERE TO
EAT IT
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To put you in the mood, here
is a piece I did recently on gastronomy in the Vendée for
“Food and Travel” magazine (June
2008 issue).
It is a big file (11 megabytes) – with
lots of beautiful images by Vendée-based photographer Roger Stowell - so be patient as it may
take a few minutes to download...
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FOOD SPECIALITIES
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As
everywhere in France, the Vendée has its
culinary specialities. In this seaside area you would expect to find fish
and shellfish - and you
certainly won't be disappointed. Sardines and sea-bass, lobsters
and langoustines, mussels, scallops, crabs, cockles, skate, tuna, sole
and mackerel turn up in abundance in fish markets and restaurants.
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The
staple food, found on menus everywhere
in the Vendée - where it is often served with local
gammon - is the small white haricot bean traditionally simmered slowly for
hours
and known as the "mogette". It is grown particularly around
Les Brouzils and
Le Poiré-sur-Vie.
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Poultry
farming is
big, particularly around Challans. The nearby marshes were
famous for duck-rearing, and the town can still
boast of being the "duck capital" of France.
Poultry-raising now includes the "poulet noir",
a free-range, black-feathered chicken (its meat being of such renown that the
birds are now on sale in Selfridge's Food Hall!).
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RESTAURANTS
I am taking
the brave step of recommending, below, a few of our favourite restaurants.
This is probably unwise. Either everyone will disagree heartily with
our judgments, or we'll never be able to get a table ourselves any more! I
disclaim all
responsibility - so don't sue me if your meal wasn't up to expectations...
Unless I've
marked these establishments as wildly cheap, or fiendishly expensive,
you can take it that they're in a medium price range - say about 20 euros per
head.
However, as French office workers expect to eat out well and cheaply at
midday, you'll often find exceptionally good-value lunches (around 15 euros) on
offer from
Monday to Friday - even in the most expensive restaurant.
Here is a link to Les Toques Vendéennes - a group of 20 eating establishments
that have joined forces to market themselves
through a booklet that you can pick up in local restaurants and tourist
offices.
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THE EURO
I am afraid you will find a few prices for places I have not revisited for a
long time still quoted in old-fashioned francs.
Bear in mind that these will clearly be very out of date (switchover was in
2002!), and that 10 French francs roughly = 1.5 euro = £1.
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2008
Three chefs in the Vendée have been awarded Michelin stars.
If you want to sample their output, here they are
(Weekday lunchtime menus often have a good-value option)
Area 1. Alexandre Couillon, La Marine, L’Herbaudière, Noirmoutier
island.
Area 2. Raphael Rolland, Le Cayola, Le
Château-d’Olonne.
Area 5. Thierry Drapeau, Logis
de la Chabotterie, St-Sulpice-le-Verdon.
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To
help location, I'm going to divide the Vendée - and surrounding area - up
into the same six sections as I have for the guidebook.
Some of these establishments we haven't revisited for some time, so no
guarantees, but if you're devoid of ideas then these are probably still worth
trying.
Nobody said our tastes were going to be the same as yours though...
If
you're prepared to share any of your own discoveries,
do mail me a short piece and I'll give you due credit on the page !
1. CHALLANS, ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE AND THE ISLANDS
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La Barre-de-Monts, Beauvoir-sur-Mer,
Bois-de-Céné, Bouin, Challans, Châteauneuf, Commequiers, Fromentine, La
Garnache, Ile de Noirmoutier, Notre-Dame-de-Monts, St-Christophe-du-Ligneron,
St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, St-Hilaire-de-Riez, St-Jean-de-Monts, Sallertaine,
Soullans, Ile d'Yeu.
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Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red
text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages
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Photo: Beauvoir
tourist office website
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BEAUVOIR-SUR-MER
Auberge des
Etiers l’Ampan, Route de Fromentine (D22), Beauvoir-sur-Mer (tel: 02 51 68 75 41)
KEITH
SHEPHERD WRITES:
If you’re in
the area and fancy a good meal, the family-run Auberge des Etiers is
definitely worth a visit. They have a 19€ menu which seems to change on a
fairly regular basis, and we’ve never had a bad meal in our three or four visits.
It’s on the main road between Fromentine and Beauvoir, just after the
aerodrome.
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Photo:
Chez Charles website
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CHALLANS
Chez Charles, 8 Place du Champ de Foire (tel: 02 51
93 36 65)
Chic restaurant on the
large square where the Tuesday-morning market is held, with sophisticated
modern décor and beautifully- presented food. Specialities include local foie
gras and Challans duck. Menus from 16€ to 46€ (2006). Closed Sun evening and Mon (July & August, closed Sun
evening only), and also from late Dec to late Jan.
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Photo: Le
Gourmandin website
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CHALLANS
Le Gourmandin, 73 rue Bonne-Fontaine (tel: 02 51 35 39 09)
JOHN BROMHALL WRITES:
This restaurant near the hospital is run by a young couple,
Maude and Stephane: he is the chef, she does front of house. Menus at around
18€ and 21€ (2007 prices) both include
fish and meat dishes. There’s à la carte, and also a 'carte blanche' - the
contents of which depend on what is available in the market. Food
preparation and presentation are excellent. Here in Edinburgh we would pay
2-3 times the cost and think we had good value for money. It’s worth
booking in advance as we did on a wet January night. Closed Sunday evening,
Monday, and Wednesday evening.
Angela adds: I ate
here at lunchtime on a Tuesday in winter (market day), and was rather
disappointed. I was given a table by the toilets (although the restaurant was
not by any means full), and thought the lunchtime menu very basic. But maybe
I should try the evening, as John recommends.
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CHALLANS
Le Don Camillo, 53 r
Gambetta (tel: 02 51 49 02 93)
JOHN BROMHALL WRITES:
As its name suggests, this restaurant near the station serves
predominantly pizza & pasta - but with a French influence. It’s ideal for
a cheap and cheerful meal; we have been a number of times and not been
disappointed.
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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COMMEQUIERS
Hotel de la Gare (tel: 02 51 54 80 38)
RICHARD GARLICK WRITES:
Sunday lunches are
a favourite family outing here, so best to book in advance.
Attractively-decorated 19th-century building, opposite village's former
railway station and just across the road from the Vélo-Rail. Leafy garden.
play area just outside the dining room. If you order in advance, you can
enjoy a varied plateau of fruits de mer at 35 euros per head - not
cheap, but we considered excellent value. Service good but a little slow at busy
times. Closed
Mon.
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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LA GARNACHE
Le Petit St-Thomas, 11 Boulevard des Platanes (tel: 02 51 49 05 99)
RICHARD GARLICK WRITES:
The friendly young
owners have taken the restaurant opposite the gates of La Garnache's ruined
castle up market with an ambitious menu. Some dishes are more successful than
others but we gave them full marks for effort; desserts were particularly
good. Very attractive interior. Booking advised for dinner, particularly
weekends. 2008: Has a mention in the Guide Michelin for
good-value good food. Ample parking. Closed Mon, and Tues
evening (open Tues in July and August)
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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GIVRAND
Ferme-Auberge du Rocher; opposite Dauphins Bleus campsite (tel: 02 51 54 59
04)
The interior of the
old barn that houses this "farm-inn" has suffered rather an
insensitive transformation, with its plastic-framed windows and corrugated
roof giving it a slightly bleak aspect. However the outside has been painted
with dazzling murals, left, and the good-value food - based on produce of the
farm - is excellent. It does pay to be keen on duck, though, as Madame Audéon
and her husband specialise in foie gras, magrets, rillettes and other
delicacies, which you can also buy at the farm shop. 65F-195F (2000). Open midday; also
evening from 1 June to 30 Sept. Closed Mon.
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Photo of L’Herbaudière: ©
Antoine Vairet
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NOIRMOUTIER (L’Herbaudière)
La Cambuse, Port de Plaisance (Marina), L’Herbaudière (tel: 02 51 35 72 27)
One of a row of
restaurants along the newly-renovated harbour front of this attractive port
on the north coast of Noirmoutier that offers indoor and outdoor dining. The
Cambuse has menus from 17€ (2006), and an emphasis on grills and seafood.
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Photo Angela Bird
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NOIRMOUTIER (L’Herbaudière)
La Marine & La Tante Elise, Port
de Plaisance (Marina), L’Herbaudière (tel: 02 51 39 23 09)
Young chef and Michelin-starholder
Alexandre Couillon has won high praise from French gourmet guides for his
interesting twists on the seafood that is landed outside his door, as well as
on other ingredients (try his green-pea sorbet!). La Marine, with just
25 covers, is newly fitted out (2008) in fantastic black and white decor;
menus from around 55€. He has also opened a slightly cheaper place next door
called La Table d’Elise (photograph, left) where you can enjoy lunch
for just 18.50€ (2008) in a friendly atmosphere and relaxed setting. Closed
Sun evg, Tues evg & all day Wed.
Obtained a Michelin
star for La Marine in 2007
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Photo: Auberge du Relais website
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LE PERRIER
Auberge Le Relais (tel: 02 51
68 32 28)
Though unpromisingly
located on the main road from Challans to St-Jean-de-Monts, this restaurant
offers a surprisingly peaceful setting looking out over open marshland – and
most important, utterly delicious food! Look for Challans duck, eel, frongs’
legs, seafood. Menus from around 27 euro. (2008); booking essential Closed Mon
off-season.
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
Le Safran, Bd de l’Egalité (tel: 02 51 55 60 15)
Looking unprepossessing
from the road (near the tourist office), this popular restaurant has a
terrace at the back overlooking the St Gilles yacht marina. Good-value
lunches, with daily specials.
Occasional musical entertainment in the evenings.
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Photo: Angela Bird
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ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
Casino, 2 Quai Garcie-Ferrande (tel: 02 51 60 09 29)
It may seem odd to
recommend a gaming joint, but the brasserie inside St-Gilles' modern casino
is open to all - gamblers and non-gamblers alike - from coffee-time to the
small hours of the morning. Located on the first floor, it has huge sliding
windows overlooking the estuary of the river Vie, and serves good-value meals
for around 20 euros (2008), with occasional "themed" evenings when
you can eat couscous, curry etc. Open daily all year, and still animated even
in winter.
One-armed bandits downstairs; roulette room open from 10pm. (You need to show
a passport for both these and pay an admission charge for the roulette room.)
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No
picture yet.
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ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
Le Marlow, Grande Plage (tel: 02 51 55 57 94)
Excellent-value lunches
(menus at 9.90 euros, 2008) at this small restaurant along the seafront
promenade. Friendly service, and sustaining portions of mussels and chips as
well as other dishes.
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No
picture yet.
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ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
Les Océanides, Place du Marché aux Herbes (tel: 02 28 10 04 95)
Smart restaurant with fishy specialities and seaside-influenced décor.
Not cheap, but excellent quality.
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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ST-GILLES-CROIX-DE-VIE
La Riviera, 3 Quai Rivière (tel: 02 51 55 55 30)
The best pizzas ever,
with thin crusts, and luscious fillings that can feature such delicacies as coquilles
st jacques, or fresh anchovies. Or order a dish of mussels, and you will
literally receive a boat-ful.
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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ST-JEAN-DE-MONTS
La Chaise Longue, Plage des Demoiselles (tel: 02 28 11 64
41)
Sophisticated crêperie
(pancake fillings include scallops and other choice shellfish; dessert ones
are just as unexpected) in a smart portakabin-style construction right on the
beach. It’s at the southern end of the St-Jean seafront - the address is
officially St-Hilaire-de-Riez. Not cheap. Best to book. Open May-September,
daily.
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Photo:
Richard Leader
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ST-JEAN-DE-MONTS
Tante Paulette, 32 Rue Neuve (tel: 02 51 58 01 12)
RICHARD LEADER WRITES:
Despite
the restaurant seeming deserted, we had a lovely meal. For just 15 euros we
ate like fat kings for a while. The
seafood platter (see left) was way more than I expected, with oysters,
langoustines, prawns, clams, winkles and more (not bad for a starter on a set
menu!)
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ST-JEAN-DE-MONTS
Le Petit St Jean, 128 Route de Notre-Dame-de-Monts (tel: 02 51 59 78 50)
In spite of a slightly
over-decorated setting, the food served by Jacques Rondeau at this pleasant
restaurant on the main road to the north of St-Jean is delicious. Booking
essential, as the place is popular with knowledgeable - and smartly-dressed -
locals. Menus 20€-33€. Closed Mon
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Photo:
Chris Deards
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SION-SUR-L'OCEAN
Café de la Plage, 1 Rue de l'Océan (tel: 02 51 54 51 76)
CHRIS
DEARDS WRITES:
This pretty little
Victorian-style building stands right on the seafront, giving excellent views
south towards the cliffs of Sion and north along the glorious sweep of sand
that makes up St-Hilaire-de-Riez beach. It's fairly basic - just a
wooden-floored café - and the service was a little slow, but the atmosphere
was good and the staff very friendly. We had oysters to start, followed by
superb moules (9.20 euros in 2006), all washed down with reasonable
wines that don't break the bank.
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2. LA ROCHE, LES SABLES AND THE BAS-BOCAGE
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Aizenay, Apremont, L'Aubonnière,
Avrillé, Beaulieu-sous-La-Roche, Brem-sur-Mer, Brétignolles-sur-Mer, La
Chaize-le-Vicomte, Coëx, Jard-sur-Mer, Maché, La Mothe-Achard,
Moutiers-les-Mauxfaits, Nesmy, Olonne-sur-Mer, Palluau, Le Poiré-sur-Vie,
Poiroux, La Roche-sur-Yon, Les Sables-d'Olonne,
St-Étienne-du-Bois, St-Révérend, Talmont-St-Hilaire.
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Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red
text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages
For some more reviews of restaurants in the Talmont/Les Sables
area, visit Michael
Julien's website
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APREMONT
Hotel du Centre, opposite château (tel: 02 51 55 70 22)
Rather too many British
voices to be heard at times, but the food can be excellent - particularly the
mussels. You can eat outside on the terrace, or inside in the cool. At
weekends it's best to book, as there are often weddings or other family
parties.
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no picture yet
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APREMONT
Le Cabanon, along lakeside road, past the barrage (dam) (tel: 02 51 55 72 13)
Simple décor, but good
position overlooking the sandy lake beach that is so popular with British
visitors. Good-value menus at lunchtime and evening, with stuffed mussels and
steak-&-chips, and simpler fare such as pizzas and pancakes.
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BELLEVILLE-SUR-VIE
Caffe Ristorante Pimento, HyperU, on southern edge of town
A sparse
industrial-style decor for this trendy restaurant in the unlikely setting of the
HyperU supermarket. It’s hugely
popular with local businessmen, so turn up early (noon), or be prepared for a
wait. Plat du jour around 14 euros (2008); pizzas from 7 euros.
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Photo: Angela Bird
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LE CHATEAU D’OLONNE
Le Puits d’Enfer, on coast road SE of Les Sables d’Olonne (tel: 02 51 21 52
77)
Delightful, airy
restaurant with sea views from its clifftop position (opposite the gully of
the same name that produces spectacular water effects in stormy weather).
Fans of the vanished Champ de Foire restaurant in Challans will be delighted
to find that the Soreaus have brought their light, crisp flavours and
signature fishy dishes with them. You can eat outside on a sheltered terrace,
as well as in the modern interior. Easy parking opposite. Closed Sun evg,
Mon all day, & Wed evg (July & Aug may be open 7/7).
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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LE CHATEAU-D'OLONNE
Le Cayola, on D32B, 7km SE of Les Sables (tel: 02 51 22 01 01)
Superbly sophisticated
restaurant on the top of the cliff, overlooking Cayola Bay, with trendy
decking stretching out seawards between diners and the water. Though
expensive - evening menus from 25 euros (2003) - the food is a dream, and the
setting ultra-romantic - but you need to book some time ahead.
Obtained a Michelin star
in 2007.
Closed Sun evening and Mon (except in June, July and
August)
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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LA ROCHE-SUR-YON
Brasserie Le Clemenceau, 41 Rue Georges Clemenceau (tel: 02 51
37 10 20)
CHARLES HARRISS WRITES:
The Rivière
brothers have the biggest-turnover brasserie in town. The standard of food is
always good (it's where the locals eat), all suppliers are listed on the menu,
and the seafood is excellent. Very lively atmosphere. Absolutely our
favourite (and I insist on good food and value for money). Menus 110F-160F
(2000). NB The tiger's head, in the restaurant's logo, recalls the nickname
of fiery WWI politician Georges Clemenceau: "le tigre". Open midday to
midnight 7/7; closed 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec.
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Photo: St
Charles website
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LA ROCHE-SUR-YON
Le Saint Charles, 38 Rue de Gaulle (tel: 02 51 47 71
37)
Delicious food,
impeccably cooked and served by the Hermouet family, who - if you need help
making your choice - speak excellent English. Menus, with jazz-themed names,
at 132F, 159F and above, plus à la carte (2001). A couple of drawbacks: the
irritating habit of giving ladies copies of the menu without prices; and the
hard edges of the chairs - it can take a bit of time to get the circulation
moving again after a convivial evening around the table. From the huge Place
Napoléon, follow the nose of Napoleon's horse to find the street... Closed Sat lunchtime
and Sun (though open for pre-booked groups Sun midday). Restaurant closed
throughout August.
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Photo:
Bistrot du Boucher
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LA ROCHE-SUR-YON
Bistrot du Boucher, 10 Rue de Verdun (tel: 02 51 09 90 42)
Steaks, poultry, fish
all cooked in straightforward fashion at this franchise restaurant. The
good-value lunchtime menu makes it a popular midday stop for office workers
in La Roche – especially those from the nearby Conseil General. Open lunch
and evening 7/7.
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LES SABLES-D'OLONNE
Bistrot du Port, 7 Quai Garnier - on fishing port (tel: 02 51 21 55 45)
Quite the most
delicious mussels we have ever tasted; you can choose from four or five different
ways (try the creamy, curry-flavoured mouclade), at around 45F (2000). Plenty
of other dishes as well for those who don't like mussels. Closed Mon.
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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LES SABLES-D'OLONNE
La Pilotine, 7 Promenade Georges-Clemenceau (tel: 02 51 22 25 25)
Discreetly located on
the seafront, Philippe Pleuën’s restaurant is the place for reliably
excellent meals (not surprising, as the patron/chef trained at Taillevent -
among other prestigious restaurants - and is a certificated "disciple of
Auguste Escoffier"). Weekday lunch menu 15€ (2007); other menus up to
39€. Closed Mon, & also Tues out of season.
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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LES SABLES D'OLONNE
La Fleur des Mers, 5 Quai Guiné - on fishing port (tel:
02 51 95 18 10)
Good food served
overlooking the fishing harbour. Best view from the tables on the higher
level, up several steps. Menus 19 € - 32 € (2003).
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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LES SABLES D'OLONNE
L’Affiche, 21 Quai Guiné - on fishing
port (tel: 02 51 95 34 74)
Good quality, good value place on fishing harbour, but best to book as it’s
small and popular.
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LES SABLES (LA CHAUME)
Le Port, 24 Quai George V (tel: 02 51 32 07 52)
Good, unpretentious
cooking, in this restaurant across the water from Les Sables, with lovely
view over harbour entrance from first floor front. (If you sit in the first
floor back, you only see a painted version, on the walls!) Closed Tues evening and
all day Wed.
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LES SABLES (LA CHAUME)
Le George V, 20 Quai George V (tel: 02 51 95 11 52)
Olivier Burban turns
out some stylish dishes at this waterside restaurant. Ask for a table by the
window for a lovely view over the entrance to the fishing harbour and marina.
Almost next to Le Port (see above).
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LES SABLES (LA CHAUME)
Loulou Panoramique, 19 Route Bleue, La Chaume (tel: 02 51 21 32 32)
Behind its rather
unprepossessing exterior, Loulou offers fantastic panoramic views over the sea
to accompany the delicious dishes created by Jean-Pierre Houga - many of them
based on the excellent, local seafood. (Follow the road along the quayside at La
Chaume, then round to the right, along the cliff road, almost to the end -
2km in all - and the restaurant is on the left.) Closed Sun evg, Mon
evg and Thurs evg out of season; closed all day Monday during summer season.
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No
picture available
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TALMONT-ST-HILAIRE
Le Cottage, 60 Avenue de Luçon (tel: 02 51 96 04 61)
EDWIN
APPS WRITES:
We usually eat at
this restaurant on the main road on the way back from Les Sables. It is
excellent, not expensive and has a nice, welcoming atmosphere.
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3. LUÇON, LA TRANCHE AND THE MARAIS POITEVIN
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L'Aiguillon-sur-Mer, Angles, Arçais,
Chaillé-les-Marais, Coulon, Esnandes, La Faute-sur-Mer, Longeville-sur-Mer,
Luçon, Maillé, Maillezais, Marans, Mareuil-sur-Lay, Moutiers-sur-le-Lay,
La Rochelle, St-Cyr-en-Talmondais, Ste-Hermine, St-Michel-en-l'Herm, La
Tranche-sur-Mer, Triaize, Velluire, La Venise Verte.
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Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red
text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages
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L'AIGUILLON-SUR-MER
Chez Gégène, Le Port (tel: 02 51 56 40 43)
ERNA DE CLERCK WRITES:
This large
bar-restaurant across from the fishing harbour is the perfect place for
lovers of shellfish. Oysters and mussels are practically landed at your feet,
so they couldn't be fresher!
(Angela
adds: I stopped here to enjoy a
plate of mussels for lunch in Feb 2009, and was hugely disappointed. The
place was packed with people enjoying seafood platters, and seeming very
happy. I chose the town’s speciality of “moules”, and as its variation - “gégène”, or house, style. Almost half the mussel shells were empty; the
fleshthat there was was scrawny; the “gégène sauce” was a horrid, cold tomato
sauce plonked on top, and in no way part of the cooking process. Stick to the
seafood platters here is probably the answer...)
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CHARRON (Charente-Maritime)
Theddy Moules, 72 Rue du 14 Juillet (tel: 05 46 01 51 29)
The plumpest mussels
anywhere are served at this simple roadside eaterie on the north side of the
village. The succulent molluscs are
cultivated on stakes and on ropes in the mud-rich Aiguillon Bay, a
mussel-shell’s throw down the road. Menu express: “Theddy” moules (cooked in
cream and Pineau sauce), chips and fruit tart 14.50€ (2007). Also à la carte.
You can buy fresh mussels to take away amd cook yourself. Open May to September
only.
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LONGEVILLE-SUR-MER
Les Flots Bleus, Plage du Rocher, Les Conches
JO DALE WRITES:
One of our favourite bistrots/cafés, within walking distance of La Tranche, serving
omelettes, salads, galettes and - especially - desserts. Open all year round
(our children had breakfast there on New Year's Day!). Very busy in season;
English spoken. The beach is a wonderful hunting-ground for fossils (look
near the low-tide line).
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Photo:
Gareth Parfitt
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LONGEVILLE-SUR-MER
Bud House Cafe, Les Conches
GARETH PARFITT WRITES:
The best pub/bar in
the Vendée, with keen prices, pub games, regular live music - and a great, friendly
atmosphere. Located near one of the Vendée's best surfing beaches, it has a
large decked promenade out front leading to pseudo-hawaiian bar area.
Proprietor Michel Bouisson is a rugby fanatic, and keeps a collection of
sporting memorabilia in the adjacent "Bar des Six Nations". Good
snack shack selling tasty and inexpensive food, and a good restaurant next
door, too.
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Photo: Au
Fil des Saisons web site
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LUÇON
Au Fil des Saisons, 55 Route
de La Roche (tel: 02 51 56 11 32)
MARTIN HOLMES
WRITES: Under new ownership since 2007, this
friendly hotel-restaurant on the north side of Luçon serves inventive and surprising cuisine – which you
can enjoy outside in the garden in the summer. The carte, changed
completely every couple of months, features lots of local produce, and has a
sort of "Vendee tradition re-visited" flavour. Two- or three-course
fixed-price formulas start at around 25€ (2008), plus à la carte.
Menus are fully translated into English, and Madame Soulard speaks very
good English. And you can treat
yourself to a Cognac that's your own age - they have all years back to 1955,
so I'm still just in !
Restaurant closed Sat
lunch, Sun evening and all day Mon.
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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LUÇON
Café du Commerce, corner of Rue Clemenceau and Place du Commerce, outside
cathedral
Good croque-monsieurs
(toasted cheese sandwiches) at this busy café, opposite Richelieu's statue, left,
on the north side of the cathedral. Easy parking in the huge square opposite
the cathedral's main door.
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Photo: La Mirabelle web site
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LUÇON
La Mirabelle, 89 bis rue du Président de Gaulle (tel: 02 51 56 93
02)
ERNA
DE CLERCK WRITES:
Owner Benoit Hermouet produces fine cuisine, using specialties
of the Vendée and of the sea. On the
expensive side (menus 23-46 euros, 2007).
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MAILLEZAIS
Le Collibert, Rue principale (tel: 02 51 87 25 07)
CHARLES HARRISS WRITES:
If the sight of
Maillezais' imposing ruined abbey on the edge of the marshes is not enough,
then this restaurant on the town's main street will provide an experience of a
different kind. Bernard Patarin's menu is very much "terroir"
(based on traditional local produce), and includes eels and the "dish of
the 27 snails (or lumas)". We lived to tell the tale, but it's probably
not for the faint-hearted. Menus from 130F-350F (2000). Closed Jan and Feb,
and Sun evening and Mon out of season.
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Photo:
Court d'Aron web site
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ST CYR EN TALMONDAIS
La Court d'Aron, 1 Allée des Tilleuls, on edge of the Parc
Floral (tel: 02 51 30 81 80)
CHARLES
HARRISS WRITES:
Dominique Orizet cooked in the UK for years and so
"English-is-spoken" with a vengeance at this pretty place, in the
shadow of a 19th-century château. Confident cooking of a high standard. Not
cheap but always good value. Check out the website for some sample menus. Closed Sun -Tues
evening and Wed in winter; mid-season closed Sun evg and Wed; summer closed
Sun evg.
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Photo:
from Auberge website
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VELLUIRE
Auberge de la Rivière, Rue
Fouarne (tel: 02 51 52 32 15)
In a tranquil position overlooking the river Vendée (watch for signposts from
village centre), this 11 room hotel, a 2-chimney Logis de France, has a
dining room at the water's edge. Under new ownership, the food from the
kitchen of Fabrice Riefolo is to die for, and still surprisingly reasonable
in price (menus 26 to 50€, 2008). Rooms, some in a building across the
courtyard, are simple, modern and pristine and priced from 50€. Closed Sun evening and
Mon (July-Sept, closed Mon lunchtime only).
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4.
FONTENAY, POUZAUGES AND THE HAUT-BOCAGE
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Bazoges-en-Pareds, Chantonnay, La
Chataigneraie, Cheffois, Faymoreau-les-Mines,
Fontenay-le-Comte, Foussais-Payré, Mervent, Moncoutant, Monsireigne,
Mouilleron-en-Pareds, Nieul-sur-l'Autise, Niort, Poitiers, Pouzauges,
St-Michel-le-Cloucq, St-Michel-Mont-Mercure,
St-Prouant, Vouvant.
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Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red
text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages
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Photo: Colin Ellis
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BAZOGES-EN-PAREDS
Auberge du Donjon, 28 Rue de la Poste (tel: 02 51 51 20 07)
COLIN
ELLIS AND FAMILY WRITE:
Aperitifs outside in summer, and a roaring log fire indoors in winter make a
welcoming atmosphere at all times of year in this elegantly restored stone
building. Try the salade du donjon, with its mixture of meats and
leaves, or caviare d'aubergines, followed by delicious pork fillet,
and rounded off with a plateful of tiny portions of every dessert in the
house. Around 18€ (2003). Closed Wed, and also Tues from mid-Sept to mid-June.
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Picture:
Moulin Migné website
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CHEFFOIS
Ferme-Auberge
du Moulin Migné (tel: 02 51 69 68 76)
Great food at this pretty farm-restaurant,
with meat and veg home-produced by Roland, and cooked and served with energy
and enthusiasm by Isabelle. You must reserve at least 24 hours in advance.
They will do vegetarian dishes if requested a day ahead. The auberge is
signposted down the country lanes, to the south of the D949bis. Menus from 19€ (2008).
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Picture:
Fontarabie website
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FONTENAY-LE-COMTE
La Fontarabie, 57 Rue de la République (tel: 02 51
69 17 24)
ERNA DE CLERCK WRITES:
The Glycine (wisteria) restaurant of this two-star Logis hotel - a former
coaching inn, but now thoroughly modernised - on Fontenay's lower main street
serves good salads, lamb and local dishes. Avoid the chips, though! My family
are connoisseurs, and we found these something of a let-down...
PS: from Angela:
I noticed that this restaurant does offer a vegetarian option on its
menus – a rare thing in the Vendée.
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MERVENT
Crêperie du Château de la Citardière, Les Ouillères (tel: 02 51 00 27 04)
Not as sophisticated
as you would think from its address. The crêperie is housed throughout the
summer in the courtyard of a sturdy, moated medieval stronghold, illustrated left,
and you can eat pancakes and other snacks, indoors or out, from noon till
10pm. Closed
Wed.
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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NIORT
André Perrier, inside market hall
Irresistible cooking smells lure hungry shoppers to a small bar area running
alongside the passageways inside Niort's beautiful glass market hall. The
helpings of braised steak etc are huge, so don't over-order!
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PISSOTTE
Crêperie le Pommier, 9 Rue des Gélinières (tel: 02 51 69
08 06)
MICHEL
LAGARDE WRITES:
In a pretty house
alongside one of the area's vinyards 4km north of Fontenay-le-Comte, Philippe
and Michelle Coirier serve generously filled galettes and sweet pancakes,
plus salads, puds and other dishes washed down with cider or family-produced rosé.
Visit the website and you can print out a voucher for a free aperitif on your
first visit! Two rooms and outdoor terrace, children's playground, and a
warming fire in winter. Best to book at weekends. Michelle also does painted
furniture and objects. Closed Mon.
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POUZAUGES
Auberge de la Bruyère, 18 Rue du Docteur-Barbinneau (tel: 02 51 91 93 46)
Fantastic view from the open-air terrace looking out over the hills and
valleys of the Bocage, where you can enjoy a splendid panorama while eating a
good-value midweek lunch at this Logis hotel-restaurant. Menus 15€-27€
(2008). 2-sdtar hotel rooms from 46€ (2008). Closed Fri evening, Sat all day, & Sun evening (June to
September, closed Sat lunch and Sun evg).
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ST-HILAIRE-DES-LOGES
Le Pantagruelion, 9 Rue de l'Octroi (tel: 02 51 00 59 19).
Smart restaurant 10km
east of Fontenay, where Laurence and Cyril Bretheau present sophisticated
dishes such as foie gras with apricot. Closed Sun evening
& Wed.
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ST-MICHEL-LE-CLOUCQ
Ferme-auberge de Mélusine, Place de la Maison Neuve (tel: 02 51
51 07 61)
Extremely good -
though not inexpensive - food, from Pascal Raguin, in this farm inn 6km
north-east of Fontenay-le-Comte. In a less rustic setting than you might
imagine, the restaurant has an imposing entrance on a hard-to-find square in
the middle of St-Michel-le-Cloucq (find the Mairie first, then look for a
signpost). The name is an allusion to the mythological fairy said to have
built castles at Vouvant and a host of other places. Lunch menu 19€ (2005). Open from Easter to end October; closed Wed, and also 1 week in
late Oct.
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Photograph : Auberge
website
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ST-MICHEL-MONT-MERCURE
Auberge du Mont Mercure, Place du Sommet (tel: 02 51 57 20 26)
Gastronomic food from Hervé Robin, hidden away behind the church in a village
that is the highest point in the Vendée. Not cheap (menus start from 23€) -
but weekday lunches at 14€ offer a chance for some bargains (2008).
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SIGOURNAIS
La Morlière, Lac de Rochereau (tel: 02 51 40 41 98)
ERNA DE
CLERCK WRITES:
M et Mme Lucas welcome visitors to their friendly, waterside restaurant
overlooking the Lac de Rochereau, a short way north-east of Sigournais - itself
some 6km north-east of Chantonnay. (Take the Monsireigne road, and keep going
a km or two until you see a sign to the restaurant in the heart of the
countryside.) Popular with families for its informal style, good-value set
menus and large playground. Closed Mon (and Wed from Sept to June)
2007: Louise Jordan adds the recommendation
below:
”We
had the most stunning meal; service couldn't have been more friendly or
helpful - made all the nicer by their extremely good-natured black
labrador.”
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5. LES HERBIERS, CHOLET AND PUY-DU-FOU
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Les Brouzils, Chavagnes-en-Paillers,
Cholet, Clisson, Les Épesses, Les Essarts,
La Gaubretière, Les Herbiers, Legé, Les Lucs-sur-Boulogne, Mallièvre, Mauléon,
Montaigu, Mortagne-sur-Sèvre, Mouchamps, Rocheservière, St-Laurent-sur-Sèvre,
St-Sulpice-le-Verdon, Tiffauges, Vendrennes.
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Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red
text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages
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Photograph : Angela
Bird
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CLISSON
La Vallée, 1 rue de la Vallée (tel: 02 40 54 36 23)
Sophisticated waterside restaurant, with a lovely view over the Sèvre
Nantaise river that flows past Clisson's Italianate buildings. Delightful
semi-open terrace with heaters for cooler days. There are some excellent
local Muscadets on the wine list. Menus from 19.50€. Closed Sun-Thurs evenings & Mon (1 July-31
Aug, closed Mon, plus Thurs & Sun evenings).
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Photograph : Auberge
du Lac website
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LES LUCS-SUR-BOULOGNE
Auberge du Lac 250 Rue du Général Charette (tel: 02 51 46
59 59)
Lakeside restaurant
near the Memorial des Lucs and the new Historial museum. Some hits (lasagne
de tourteau is a lovely light crab starter); some misses (John Dory fish with
pineapple sauce tastes of nothing but the fruit). Service can be slack.
Outdoor eating area overlooking the lake is lovely for warm nights. Menus
from 23€ (2006). Closed Sun evg, Tues evg and all day Wed
(July and Aug, closed Wed only).
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Photograph : La
Digue website
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MONTAIGU
La Digue, 9 Rue des Abreuvoirs (tel: 02 51 06 34 48)
Tasty grills – fish as
well as meat - in this small waterside restaurant overlooking the confluence
of the Grande and Petite Maine rivers. Menus from 11€-24€ (2006).
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Photo:
Angela Bird
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ST-SULPICE-LE-VERDON
Thierry Drapeau at La
Chabotterie, Logis de la Chabotterie (tel: 02 51 09 59 31)
Thierry Drapeau’s
wonderful high-class restaurant in the stable block of the elegant
18th-century country house serves local ingredients such as sea-bass and duck
with a new twist. The charming staff bring endless extra goodies to your
table, so make sure you are hungry. Weekday lunch menu 35€; otherwise 55-85€.
Closed
Sun evening-Tues midday.
Obtained a Michelin
star in 2006
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6. NANTES, ST-NAZAIRE AND LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE
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La Baule, Bourgneuf-en-Retz, La Grande-Brière,
Guérande, Haute-Goulaine, Machecoul, Moutiers-en-Retz, Nantes, Le Pallet,
Passay, Le Pellerin, Pornic, Préfailles, St-Brevin-les-Pins,
St-Lumine-de-Coutais, St-Marc-sur-Mer, St-Nazaire, St-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu,
Touvois, Vertou.
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Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red
text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages
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NANTES
La Cigale, 4 Place Graslin (opposite the opera
house) ; (tel: 02 51 84 94 94)
Beautiful brasserie,
with Art Nouveau tiles that rival those of Harrod’s food halls. Very busy at
lunchtime, but open for meals throughout the day, from breakfast through
afternoon tea and through to a post-cinema nightcap. Open every day of the year, 7.30am till midnight.
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PASSAY
Restaurant des Pêcheurs, 11 Rue du Port de Passay, La Chevrolière (tel:
02 40 04 31 94).
JEAN-CLAUDE
ROBERT WRITES:
Old-style restaurant de
campagne - originally a fishermen's café - in a row of cottages
near the edge of the mysterious Lac de Grand-Lieu. Specialities are, of
course, the produce of the lake itself (frogs'-legs, eels and freshwater fish
like zander), so it pays to have an adventurous palate. Average price for
three-course meal of the day 100-150F (depending how "piggy" you
feel and how thirsty you are!). Lunchtimes only;
reservation essential in summer.
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© Angela Bird...and friends
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